Beginner’s Guide to American Paint Silkies

20190501_143205-1                                                                          Two months ago I was given a young one week old paint silkie chick from someone that could no longer keep it. At one week, it had neon yellow down with small patches of black here and there, mostly on its neck, back and tail.  Even at one week its personality was saying “rooster” to me. What was I going to do with this chick? I really didn’t have space for another color pen in my coops but I was very curious as to how this little chick would feather out.  Needless to say, I kept the little guy because I wanted to learn more about paint silkies.

Paint silkies have been recently added to the ABA (American Bantam Association) approved list of silkie varieties for showing. There is a written standard for their variety.  There have been paint silkies in Europe for some time.  Judy Lee of Nashville, TN is credited with discovering and developing the first American Paint silkies.  She found a young white chick with black spots in her backyard flock and spent many years of breeding to be able to successfully reproduce the spotted chicks.  Others have worked hard to get it accepted as a variety of silkie.

What is the spotted paint gene and how does it work?  Why do some chicks have many spots and others just a few?  Paint silkies have been compared to the genetics found in Appaloosa horses. The spotted paint gene is not easily understood and does not always follow a set of prescribed rules.  The black feathers are not painted on top, but are black all the way to the shaft of the feather.  Larger black spots are more desirable than small ones.

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Paints may look similar to splashes but their spots are larger.  Splash is blue based. Paints are black based with a white background.  You would not want to breed your blue splashes into your paints. What would result would not follow the standards set for American Paints.

Go back to what you remember about Mendel’s first law. It states that pairs of hereditary genes for a specific trait separate so that offspring receive one factor from each parent. One gene from the mother and one gene from the father.  The dominant gene will show or be expressed or if it receives two recessive genes, these will show. Paints are basically a black chicken that carries one dominant white gene.  This one dominant white gene does not always cover up all of the black. Some of this black will “leak through” the white. It is like a white sheet is covering the black chicken, but the white sheet has some holes cut in it and the black shows through in those spots. This is what produces a paint.  If a black bird carries two dominant white genes, the black is completely covered and you wind up with a completely white bird. It is not a paint but a dominant white.

There is another gene that can cause a bird to be white.  It is the recessive white gene.  Paints are not recessive white.  Most white silkies have the recessive white gene instead of the dominant white gene.

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Most people who have paints for the first time will breed a paint to a true dark black silkie.  This will result in blacks that are split to paint.  They then breed the black ( split to paints) to the original paints.

“Split” means that they carry one copy.  A bird that is split to paint means it has one copy of paint and one of usually black. Split is simply “bird talk” for a chick that is carrying a hidden trait.  You can carry one copy of the paint but the gene is not “showing” and so the bird looks black

34f4a33196868d2a1d3ae477aa62320f                                  If you want to keep a true black pen, you would need to keep careful records so as not to breed black splits into it.  Black splits will interfere with the genetics of your true black pen. True Blacks have that beautiful beetle green sheen to the tail and wing feathers.

 

Many people like to breed their black splits back to their original paints to improve their paints.  Paints have problems with skin pigment holes in their feet and eyes. It causes feet to not be totally black, but to have light patches on the bottom of them. It can cause eyes to look yellow instead of black.

This is just an introduction to all of the genetics involved with breeding paints.  I do not pretend to be any kind of expert in the breeding of paints.  I am excited about the possibility of breeding them and may be setting up some paint and black breeding pens in the near future.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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How to Get Your Chickens to Like You

20190323_132808-1We have all heard stories of chickens that are big snuggle bunnies or chickens that will jump in your lap and sleep by your side at night.  You may have wondered if these stories were real or make-believe because your own chickens run away from you squawking and flying up into trees.  I am often asked by people how you can encourage chickens to be more loving towards you.  It all comes down to time spent with them and food.

The breed of chicken does make a difference as well. Some breeds are just more domesticated than others.  I have found Barred Rocks to be the most loving breed of all.  Mine loved to sit in my lap.  Breeds that are more flighty, and thus less tolerant of people are often breeds with large crests such as polish or silkies.  The crests make it difficult for them to see clearly.  They don’t know if that movement is you or a predator coming after them. Trimming their crests so that they can see will change how they react to you.  Using your voice to announce your arrival can help as well. I have a distinct call that I use that the birds recognize as “food is on the way.” They will come running when they hear that call.

Learning to associate you with food and treats goes a long way towards bonding with them.  Cracked corn is my flock’s favorite treat. I use it as a training tool to teach them how to come in at night or if I need them to be somewhere else while I clean out their coop. Another special treat is called Grubblies.  These are oven dried black soldier fly grubs. Yum.  But your birds will love them and love you for giving them some.  Live meal worms or freeze dried meal worms will also bring your chickens running and cackling.

One of the best things that you can do is to simply spend time with your flock. Get a chaise lawn chair and place it in the coop or run or even where they free range. Make sure that it is low to the ground. You don’t want to be towering over them.  Lie down and read a book or look at your phone. Maybe watch a movie. Just spend time next to them without trying to hold or grab them. Think about Fern in the book “Charlotte’s Web.” She would sit quietly for hours next to the animals pen until the animals learned to trust her presence. That book is filled with wisdom.  We can learn a lot about animals from E. B. White.  Place the treat bag near you or even scatter treats on you or around your chair. Appear uninterested in them and they will start bothering you for attention. Let them roost on your chair.  Repeat this every day and be consistent.  You will be rewarded.

Do not jump, run or move fast around your birds. Slow movements will build trust. Quick movements will scare them. Do not hold your chicken too tightly or they will start to panic. Also, be careful with a chicken around your face. Roosters have been known to attack eyes when held close to the human face. Some roosters are cuddlers and others are man fighters. If you are breeding, make sure that you are not using aggressive roosters. Temperament can be genetically handed down.  There is no sense in breeding aggression into your flock.

Baby chicks pose a different problem. They are instinctively afraid of everything. We appear to be a huge figure flying down from above, not unlike a hawk would swoop. They will see you as a predator until you can build their trust. Keep yourself at their level.

Baby chicks do not imprint on a single person such as ducks and geese will. There is no window of opportunity when it comes to bonding with your chicken. A chicken can grow to love you no matter what age you acquire it.  You do not need to purchase a very young chick in order to have it become attached to you.  You can start bonding with a bird at any age.

Start by getting them to eat treats out of your hand. First you will need to show them what treats are.  Egg yolk from a hard boiled egg is a great treat for a little chick. Chop the yolk up a little into pieces they can eat. When they are ready for other treats ,make sure that they have chick grit to help their crop grind up the treats.  Place the treats on the ground first, then gradually move to your hand. Remember that most of their nutrition should come from their chick starter and not their treats.  Don’t go overboard with tidbits that have poor nutritional value.

Gently handling the chicks often will help them to become tame.  Be very aware of how little children are handling the birds. Young chicks can jump from little hands and injure themselves or can be squeezed too tightly.  Make sure that they also are getting a chance to rest and warm back up under the heat source.

Chickens can be great therapy animals. There is a program called PAWS at the University of Minnesota. PAWS stands for Pet Away The Stress.  They use silkie chickens and other animals that have been trained and can help students that are feeling the stress of being away from home and who just need some extra love. What better way to get that love than from your favorite chicken.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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Correct Brooder Temperature and Introduction to Outdoors for Chicks

20190227_151759-1It is both fun and exciting to have baby chicks in the house.  Many first time chick owners fret about what the ideal brooder temperature should be. As the chicks grow and their space needs expand many people wonder when would be the best time for integrating the chicks outdoors with the rest of the flock in the coop.  We will be exploring both of these questions in this article.

When deciding on a source for brooder heat you need to think about the air temperature surrounding your brooder. A brooder should be inside to regulate temperature and moisture and to prevent predators from getting at the chicks. Inside means that it can be in a garage, laundry room, shed or barn.  It can even be inside of your coop.  You will want to have some kind of cover on it to keep out predators.  A cookie rack or screen works well.

A newborn chick’s body is covered with down. The newborn will have a hard time controlling it’s own temperature since it does not have real feathers yet.  They will warm themselves by huddling close together.  Chicks need an additional heat source until their down gives way to hard feathers.  Chicks raised by a mother hen will be seen darting in and out from under her wing as they use her body as a heat source.  A hen’s internal temperature ranges from 105-107 degrees F.

The rule of thumb is to start your brooder temperature at 95 degrees F (35 C) and reduce it 5 degrees F (3 C) each week until the brooder temperature is the same as the room’s temperature.

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This chart from Roberts Farm is a good resource to judge what temperature the brooder should be for how old the chicks are. It also can give you an idea of what age they can transition to the outside according to the outside temperature.  For example, if your chick is 6 weeks old, it needs to be at least 65 degrees F for it to be outdoors.

Make sure that your brooder heat source is up and running for at least 24 hours before you introduce chicks to it.  Chick brooder temperature is measured with a thermometer placed 2 inches (5 cm) above the brooder floor. You may want to measure it with several different thermometers as sometimes they will each read differently.

Many people use a brooder heat lamp with a 250 watt bulb.  The red heat bulb helps to prevent picking among chicks and can help with night time light. Start by hanging the lamp with an adjustable chain at about 18 inches above the chicks. Don’t rely on the clamp to hold the heat lamp safely. You need to add a chain and hang it from a hook above the brooder.  You must take safety precautions when using this type of brooder heater as if they fall they will cause fires.  As the chicks grow, you can shorten the chain to decrease the temperature in the brooder.

A heated panel uses radiant heat.  It only heats directly below the panel.  This makes it easier for chicks to move away from the heat. Ecoglow can have its heat adjusted by lengthening its legs.  Sweeter Heaters are hung from above and can  be raised and lowered to change temperature.  Heated panels are not a fire hazard and will not burn out like a heat lamp bulb could do, which would chill your chicks.

A chick’s body language will tell you whether or not they are too hot or too cold.  Chicks that aren’t warm enough will crowd towards the heat source.  They will peep shrilly and constantly. Their poo will begin to paste up on their bottoms.  Pasty Butt can clog their vents which could lead to death.  In an attempt to get warm while they sleep, the chicks could pile up and smother each other. Piling often happens at night when the room temperature drops.

Chicks that are too warm move away from the heat source. They spend less time eating and grow more slowly. They pant and crowd to the edges of the brooder. They keep their heads down and are very quiet.  If the brooder is hot enough to raise their internal temperature above 117 degrees F, they will die.

Chicks at the correct temperature are happy chicks.  They wander around their brooder making musical sounding noises of contentment.  They breathe through their nostrils and do not pant.

Chicks need one half square foot of space each for the first two weeks.  They grow fast. You will need to increase the amount of space as they head into three and four weeks of age. You will need a bigger brooder or split the group and get a second brooder.  They can be off of the heat lamp when the temperature of the room they are in matches their age on the chart above. Chicks hatched in winter or early spring will need a heat source longer than chicks hatched in late spring or early summer.  Larger breeds will be sooner than bantams.

When they are ready to transition outside (They must be feathered out) start by letting them outside during the day.  Chicks can be vulnerable to predators such as hawks and the neighbor’s cat so be sure to keep an eye on them.  A dog kennel or fencing keeps them protected and doesn’t let them escape.  Bring them back inside at night.

If they are too cold outside they will let you know by puffing up their feathers and peeping in a frightened way.  Don’t leave them alone as they could become chilled quickly.

Don’t be in a hurry to put them with other adult chickens. Ideally, they should be the same size as the rest of your flock. Pecking order is a real thing and they will be pecked at by the larger birds.  Start by having them close together but separated by a barrier.  They will be able to see each other but not touch each other.  Gradually give them more opportunities to be together.  The integration process can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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Chicken Nesting Box Issues and Solutions

20190302_121132-1If you have ever searched high and low for your hen’s eggs only to find them in the oddest places, you know that having a nest box in your coop can save you both time and frustration. Hens tend to lay in a spot in which they feel secure and as creatures of habit they will continue to use the same place day after day.

There are many different kinds of nesting boxes on the market. The most deluxe ones are the Roll Out nesting boxes. These keep eggs safe by gently rolling them away from the eyes of other hens. The eggs stay cleaner and they won’t be pecked at or become dirty from staying under the hen.  It is movable so it is easy to clean as well. Curtains for privacy keep the area darkened which the laying hens love.  It can prevent chickens from eating the eggs.

Plastic nesting boxes are very easy to clean. A sloped roof means that they won’t be able to roost on them at night.  Hens prefer a circular hole to enter when choosing a spot to lay their eggs. The boxes fasten to the wall which allows you to mount them anywhere and at any height in your coop.  You can even mount them outside if you free range your hens and train them to use the boxes instead of laying eggs under bushes.

Six hen metal nesting boxes have a bottom that can be removed for cleaning. There are roosting bars that make entering the boxes easier for the hen. You need about one nesting box for every 5 hens, so these are nice for flocks that are larger.  Metal and plastic will always be easier to clean than wooden boxes.

Where you decide to place your nesting boxes is very important.  The spot needs to be quiet and safe. Place it away from the food dishes and waterers and away from the busy pop door to the outside.  You want the box to be in a darkened area that is private.  Hanging curtains is an excellent way to achieve this.

Nesting boxes are typically placed 18 inches off the  floor or higher. Silkies will have trouble jumping that high up, so you should lower it for them. You want them high enough to be free of drafts from the floor and away from other nosy birds that may try and steal the eggs. Do not place the boxes the same height as the roosting pole. If you do, you will encourage hens to roost on the boxes or even sleep inside of the box.  If they sleep inside of the box you will find it full of chicken poo in the morning. I would not place the boxes anywhere near the roosting bar in order to discourage sleeping there.

The size of the box can vary but a 12 X 12 X 12 cube fits most birds. If you have larger breeds you should have a larger box. Bantams can have a smaller box. One box for every 5 birds is good as they all love to use the same box anyways.  A broody who is monopolizing the favorite box should probably be  removed to another spot.

Nesting materials should be soft and inviting. Pine shavings, straw and nesting pads are good choices.  Some nesting pads are washable and can be used many times.  Adding dried herbs to the boxes smells nice and can deter pests. Hens want to relax in their nesting boxes and not be bit by mites or other insects.  Hens tend to prefer a box that has a thicker lining of bedding.

You may need to train your young hens to lay in their nesting boxes.  Try placing ceramic or wooden eggs   in the nest to help give them the idea.  Pick up hens that look like they are scouting out a place to lay and place them in the nesting box.  You can even lock the hens inside the coop (provided it is not too hot) until they begin the habit of laying in the nesting boxes.  New hens that are with older hens will get used to the idea very quickly.

Nesting boxes should be the cleanest part of the coop. I add new bedding to the nesting areas every day.  No one wants to eat dirty eggs and they are difficult to incubate as well.  Nesting boxes that have poo in them are becoming dirty because birds are sleeping in them at night.  Roosts need to be higher than nesting boxes and as far away from them as possible. Sloped roofs discourage roosting on top of the boxes. If you see hens sleeping in the nesting boxes remove them and place them on roosts.  You may have to block boxes in the evening so that hens do not enter them to sleep. Then remember to open them again in the morning.

My birds like to lay in the run, especially young, inexperienced hens. If they are using a spot that you do not like, then block that area.  It won’t take long for them to forget about that spot and choose another.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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Chickens That Won’t Come in at Night

20190217_093457-1“The chickens have come home to roost” is a saying based on a very real fact.  Chickens are creatures of habit and they will return every evening as the sun is going down to a place that they feel safe and comfortable.  You would like that place to be the inside of your coop but often chickens will choose a different place such as the branches of a tree.  Here are some things that you can do to encourage your birds to come home at night so that you aren’t spending your time chasing and herding the chickens in.

Chickens do not have night vision.  They can’t see in the dark. They use their pineal gland to sense whether it is light or dark out. The pineal gland is located right behind the chicken’s eyes. It also allows the chicken to sense the changing seasons.  As it begins to get darker out the hens will sense that it is time to go home and find a place to sleep. A coop that is warm and safe is a good place to go to.

If they habitually sleep in the coop, they will return to it every night. You may need to teach them this habit but once they have it, it would be very unusual for them not to return each and every night.

The first step towards building this habit is to lock them inside the coop for several days so that they learn that this is their home. This is best done when it is not extremely hot outside as you don’t want them to overheat inside of the coop.  Place food and water inside of the coop and have roosting poles available for them to roost on at night.  They even have heated roosting bars for winter if you so desire.

Next, let them out so that they are in an enclosed area such as a chicken run  before you let them free range. This way you will still know where they are and can get them back into the coop at night without having to search for them.  Once they are used to that and hopefully understand where home is you can let them free range on their own.

Put a little light inside the coop to help them find their roosts in the evening. It doesn’t need to be very bright. A 25 watt light bulb will do. Just turn it off when you go to lock them up when they are all inside.

Food and treats work very well for coaxing them in at night. Put the food in the coop so that they will want to go inside. Birdseed mixed with mealworms is a motivating treat.  Make sure that it is something that they only get in the evening before roosting. Don’t leave it out or use it for other things as it won’t be special anymore.

Use a distinct call to summon them.  It can be your voice or anything else that makes a sound like a whistle.  Choose one consistent call. Not your regular voice. I use a high pitched call saying “Come, come, come” or if I have a treat like cracked corn, I will say “Corn, corn corn”.  When they hear the “corn call” they stop what they are doing and come running.  Use the call and then toss the treats into the coop. They will see you and the treats and will associate the two together with coming in at night.

Be patient. If one chicken figures out that there are treats to be had, the rest will copy her to get some treats as well.  Soon they will be going into the coop every night on their own even if you stop giving them treats.

Young birds and new birds seem to have the hardest time with returning to the coop in the evening. They simply have not learned  that the coop is home yet. New places and new experiences can be bewildering for new birds.  They will watch others and learn, but for awhile you may have to scoop them up and put them on the roost at night.

Older birds may not want to return to the coop because there are pests inside it that are bothering them.  Mice and rats can cause problems for birds. Red mites can hide in the wood during the day and come out to bother the birds at night biting them as they roost. A predator such as a snake could have gotten in and is stealing the egg supply. This will scare any hen from wanting to go home because she doesn’t feel safe there.

Chickens that are lower on the pecking order will delay going in at night if they are being bullied by other hens.  Some hens will block doorways or peck birds as they enter the coop. The number two rooster will often delay going in as well because he knows that the head rooster will be giving him a peck as he goes in.

If a broody hen has chosen a nesting spot outside of your coop, it may be difficult to get her to come in at night. Use ceramic eggs and make a new spot for her inside of the coop if possible.

A dirty coop that is full of droppings produces an ammonia smell. This is harmful and can cause respiratory issues with your birds.  They may be refusing to roost in the coop because the air quality is so bad that they can’t breath.

Tension in the flock can also cause birds to not want to enter the coop in the evening. Too many roosters can be unpleasant for the hens and they may want to just stay outside and hide in the trees.  Too many roosters can also lead to battles between them where others could be injured in too tight of an area.  Do not have an overcrowded coop or they may stay outside where they have more room.

If you can’t always be home at dusk to lock the chickens up at night, you may want to invest in an automatic chicken coop door.  There are many to choose from but the ChickenGuard seems to be a good choice.  You can put it on a timer or it can be light sensitive to close.  You always want to lock up your chickens at night so that predators cannot enter.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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