New Silkies – Page 49

Chickens That Won’t Come in at Night

February 20, 2019April 18, 2020 by vjppoultry, posted in New Silkies

20190217_093457-1 “The chickens have come home to roost” is a saying based on a very real fact. Chickens are creatures of habit and they will return every evening as the sun is going down to a place that they feel safe and comfortable. You would like that place to be the inside of your coop but often chickens will choose a different place such as the branches of a tree. Here are some things that you can do to encourage your birds to come home at night so that you aren’t spending your time chasing and herding the chickens in.

Chickens do not have night vision. They can’t see in the dark. They use their pineal gland to sense whether it is light or dark out. The pineal gland is located right behind the chicken’s eyes. It also allows the chicken to sense the changing seasons. As it begins to get darker out the hens will sense that it is time to go home and find a place to sleep. A coop that is warm and safe is a good place to go to.

If they habitually sleep in the coop, they will return to it every night. You may need to teach them this habit but once they have it, it would be very unusual for them not to return each and every night.

The first step towards building this habit is to lock them inside the coop for several days so that they learn that this is their home. This is best done when it is not extremely hot outside as you don’t want them to overheat inside of the coop. Place food and water inside of the coop and have roosting poles available for them to roost on at night. They even have heated roosting bars for winter if you so desire.

Next, let them out so that they are in an enclosed area such as a chicken run before you let them free range. This way you will still know where they are and can get them back into the coop at night without having to search for them. Once they are used to that and hopefully understand where home is you can let them free range on their own.

Put a little light inside the coop to help them find their roosts in the evening. It doesn’t need to be very bright. A 25 watt light bulb will do. Just turn it off when you go to lock them up when they are all inside.

Food and treats work very well for coaxing them in at night. Put the food in the coop so that they will want to go inside. Birdseed mixed with mealworms is a motivating treat. Make sure that it is something that they only get in the evening before roosting. Don’t leave it out or use it for other things as it won’t be special anymore.

Use a distinct call to summon them. It can be your voice or anything else that makes a sound like a whistle. Choose one consistent call. Not your regular voice. I use a high pitched call saying “Come, come, come” or if I have a treat like cracked corn, I will say “Corn, corn corn”. When they hear the “corn call” they stop what they are doing and come running. Use the call and then toss the treats into the coop. They will see you and the treats and will associate the two together with coming in at night.

Be patient. If one chicken figures out that there are treats to be had, the rest will copy her to get some treats as well. Soon they will be going into the coop every night on their own even if you stop giving them treats.

Young birds and new birds seem to have the hardest time with returning to the coop in the evening. They simply have not learned that the coop is home yet. New places and new experiences can be bewildering for new birds. They will watch others and learn, but for awhile you may have to scoop them up and put them on the roost at night.

Older birds may not want to return to the coop because there are pests inside it that are bothering them. Mice and rats can cause problems for birds. Red mites can hide in the wood during the day and come out to bother the birds at night biting them as they roost. A predator such as a snake could have gotten in and is stealing the egg supply. This will scare any hen from wanting to go home because she doesn’t feel safe there.

Chickens that are lower on the pecking order will delay going in at night if they are being bullied by other hens. Some hens will block doorways or peck birds as they enter the coop. The number two rooster will often delay going in as well because he knows that the head rooster will be giving him a peck as he goes in.

If a broody hen has chosen a nesting spot outside of your coop, it may be difficult to get her to come in at night. Use ceramic eggs and make a new spot for her inside of the coop if possible.

A dirty coop that is full of droppings produces an ammonia smell. This is harmful and can cause respiratory issues with your birds. They may be refusing to roost in the coop because the air quality is so bad that they can’t breath.

Tension in the flock can also cause birds to not want to enter the coop in the evening. Too many roosters can be unpleasant for the hens and they may want to just stay outside and hide in the trees. Too many roosters can also lead to battles between them where others could be injured in too tight of an area. Do not have an overcrowded coop or they may stay outside where they have more room.

If you can’t always be home at dusk to lock the chickens up at night, you may want to invest in an automatic chicken coop door. There are many to choose from but the ChickenGuard seems to be a good choice. You can put it on a timer or it can be light sensitive to close. You always want to lock up your chickens at night so that predators cannot enter.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com . VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul. We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available. Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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Egg Storage and Washing – Counter Top vs Refrigerator

February 7, 2019April 18, 2020 by vjppoultry, posted in New Silkies

91fQB-ak8NL._SL1500_ When it comes to egg storage there are two schools of thought. There are those who store their eggs in the refrigerator at 40 degrees F and there are those who store their eggs on their kitchen counter at room temperature. There is also controversy about whether you should wash eggs or not before using them. Lets explore these ideas and see what the experts say.

Eggs don’t need to be refrigerated but one day on the counter at room temperature is equivalent to one week in the fridge. Eggs will keep seven times longer in the refrigerator than on the counter. In fact, the average egg in the grocery store can be up to 8 weeks old by the time you purchase it. After an egg is refrigerated, it must continue to be kept at that temperature. A cold egg left out at room temperature can sweat, which helps the growth of bacteria that could contaminate the eggs. Many baking recipes call for eggs to be at room temperature, but refrigerated eggs should not be left out more than two hours. You can bring eggs to room temp by placing them in clean, warm water for several minutes.

British and European supermarkets don’t refrigerate eggs. You will find eggs on the shelves next to canned goods and cake mixes. In America you will find them in the dairy case next to the milk and butter.

The USDA requires that graded eggs sold to supermarkets are washed and sprayed with a chemical sanitizer before they are sold to the public to reduce the risk of salmonella infection. Salmonella can infect eggs in two different ways. In the first, bacteria can be passed on from an infected hen to the inside of the egg as it is developing. The second way is that it can get onto the outside of the shell after the egg is laid by coming into contact with chicken poo.

If an egg is infected with salmonella, the bacteria will multiply more quickly if the eggs are stored at room temperature. Storing eggs below 40 degrees F halts the growth of salmonella and cooking eggs to at least 160 degrees F kills any bacteria that is present.

In the UK, Grade A hen eggs may not be washed because the process is thought to aid the transfer of harmful bacteria like salmonella from the outside to the inside of the eggs. Basically, that is opposite thought from the US. But, British hens are also more likely to be vaccinated against salmonella than US hens.

As eggs leave the hen, they are given a protective bloom on their surface. This bloom keeps air and bacteria out. Once eggs are washed the protective bloom will be gone. Unwashed eggs will last up to two weeks on the counter top and three months or more in the refrigerator. Washed eggs will last at least 2 months in the fridge but won’t taste as fresh as unwashed eggs of the same age. If you wash your eggs, you need to cook them immediately or put them in the fridge. Do not leave washed eggs on the counter top. Once washed, bacteria begins to grow.

Keep the eggs from your backyard hens as clean as possible. Change your nesting box bedding often. A roll away nesting box will also help to keep your eggs clean by gently removing them away from the nesting box bedding. Fine sand paper can be used to scrape off any dried poo from the egg.

If you are interested in washing your eggs use warm water. The water should always be warmer than the egg itself or the inside will contract pulling bacteria into the egg. You can use an egg cleanser with an egg brush to remove dirt. Scrubbing pads work like sandpaper to gently remove dried chicken poo. Some states require that eggs be washed before they can be sold, so check your state’s status.

It is up to you whether you keep your eggs on the counter in a cute spiral holder or a two dozen fridge egg storage unit in the refrigerator. Once cold, the eggs need to stay cold. Don’t take them out and leave them on the counter for more than 2 hours. If you choose to wash your eggs, you must then refrigerate them.

Victoria J. Peterson

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How to Stop Egg Eating Chickens

January 30, 2019April 21, 2020 by vjppoultry, posted in New Silkies

20161019_111736 Every once in a while you may find broken eggs in your coop, nesting box or run. Predators that like eggs may be the culprit. These predators include weasels, rats, skunks and snakes. If that is the case then you need to take steps to keep them from entering your coop and run. More than likely, though, you probably have an egg eating chicken. It is important to stop this behavior before it is taught to your entire flock. Hens will copy each other and suddenly everyone is eating your family’s eggs.

If this habit is not broken immediately, it will be harder to break them of the habit later. You can usually figure out who the culprit is by the tell tale yellow yolk on its beak. Carefully check each chickens beak and you should be able to find the one or ones who have been doing it. Isolating the chicken from the rest of the flock for a few days can help them to forget about how much they like to eat eggs and while they are isolated they won’t have access to other hen’s eggs. A dog kennel works well placed in the coop. They can see others but not get too close to the eggs. But, preventing in the first place is easier than trying to stop it.

The first thing to prevent egg eating is by reducing egg breakage in the first place. A broken egg is an open invitation for a quick, tasty meal for a chicken. Most hens use nesting boxes when laying eggs. However, not all, especially young pullets who will begin by just laying their eggs anywhere on the floor of the coop.

Provide at least one 12 inch square nest box for every 4 to 5 hens in the flock. The boxes should be at least 2 feet off the ground and 4 feet from roosts. Keep at least 2 inches of clean dry nesting material in the box at all times. Nesting pads at the bottom are soft and prevent egg breakage. They can also let you know if you have an egg eater in that box as the pads will be stained with yellow yolk.

If there is a lot of congestion in your nesting boxes, you may want to remove any broody hens that are taking up valuable space and place them somewhere else. Hens like privacy when laying eggs. If you have an egg eater eating right from the nesting box you may want to invest in a roll away nesting box. These are designed to gently roll away the egg after it is laid so that other birds can not get at the egg and you can pick them up when it is convenient for you.

Eggs that have a hard shell will be more difficult to peck open than thin shelled ones. Make sure that you are offering oyster shell as a calcium supplement in a bowl by itself. If you feed back egg shells to your hens, make sure that they are smashed up so that the hens won’t associate them with other eggs.

Make sure that your hens are eating enough protein. Layer feed should be 16% or higher. Gamebird feed is good. Your chickens may be missing something nutritionally which is causing them to look for it in raw eggs. You may want to serve them some cooked or scrambled eggs to up their protein. You should not give them raw eggs as they could learn to view this as a good food source.

Collect eggs early and often. Most eggs are laid before 10 am. Collecting them early doesn’t give other chickens the chance to get bored and start pecking at them. Giving them other things to peck at such as Flock Blocks or treat toys can relieve boredom.

Over crowding can lead to stress in a flock, which can lead to egg eating. Make sure that there is enough space in your coop for all of your hens. Always have food and fresh water available and set up a second feeding station if you have a bully hen guarding the first station. Give your hens the opportunity to be outdoors in some kind of run or free range situation.

Try not to startle your hens. Gently remove eggs from under them. Sudden movements can lead to egg breakage. Keep the nesting box area darkened with curtains and low lighting. Bright lights lead to stressful birds and other hens will be able to see the eggs in the nesting boxes and might try to break the eggs open.

Placing ceramic eggs or wooden eggs in nesting boxes or around the coop can also be a deterrent to egg eating. Pecking a ceramic egg and not receiving a snack can re-train a hen into thinking that eggs may not result in a meal. Golf balls will also work.

I would not get rid of a hen just because she was caught eating eggs. I find that these eggs are almost always thin shelled to begin with. Provide them with a healthy diet and adequate space and egg eating should diminish.

Victoria J. Peterson

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Frozen Chicken Eggs – Use and Prevention

January 14, 2019April 21, 2020 by vjppoultry, posted in New Silkies

whites outside Cold winter temperatures can effect your chicken’s laying patterns. Chickens lay less eggs in cold weather because they know that now is not the time to be starting a family. Less daylight during the winter is also a clue that they should rest and reserve their energy for springtime. Each egg that is laid in the winter is like a gift to your family and you want to protect it in every way that you can. Nothing is more disappointing than picking up an egg and seeing the open, gaping cracks.

Eggs become frozen and crack due to the fact that the moisture inside of the egg expands as it becomes a frozen solid. This expanding mass has nowhere to go but out and the shell cracks under the pressure. Eggs will freeze within 36 minutes of temperatures below 32 degrees F. However, if they are protected they can last longer.

Many people ask whether or not you can eat eggs that have become frozen out in the coop. There are different degrees of frozen when it comes to eggs. Sometimes an egg seems frozen, but it has not cracked. You can go ahead and refrigerate it and use it after it has defrosted. These eggs are best hard boiled. Frozen eggs do not work well in baking. The rise is never very good. Freezing causes the yolk to become thick and syrupy. The yolk will not blend well with the white. Do not keep them for more than a few days after thawing.

If the egg is cracked, but the membrane does not seem to be split, you can still use it but do so right away and cook it completely. If the egg shell is dirty, I would not use it. You never know if somehow bacteria could have entered. Sometimes the crack is just a hairline and hard to see.

If the egg is cracked and the membrane is broken, the white will be oozing out once it is thawed. These eggs should not be used for human consumption. Bacteria will have entered through the broken membrane and shell. You could cook the eggs and feed them back to your dog or your chickens. This is what I do. Their digestive tracts are better equipped to handle bacteria than ours are.

Unwashed eggs can be left out of the counter for many weeks without being refrigerated because they are surrounded by a protective bloom which is deposited by the hen as she lays the egg. Washing removes this bloom. If an egg is outside in cold conditions and then is brought inside into a warm environment, condensation can occur on the outside of the egg. This condensation will make the egg wet and remove the protective bloom. Make sure that you refrigerate these eggs and do not leave them out. Rain and snow can do the same thing.

There are many ways to prevent having frozen eggs. The best way is to collect your eggs as often as possible. Most eggs are laid in the morning. If you work during the day you could ask family members or neighbors to help you out. My silkie hens like to sit on the eggs whether they are broody or not. They will keep your eggs nice and toasty until you can retrieve them.

Hanging curtains around your nesting boxes will help to retrain heat inside. As the hens sit inside to lay their eggs, they will give off body heat. Use as heavy a material as possible for curtains which will be good insulators.

Use a thick nest of bedding in the bottom of your boxes. Straw is a wonderful insulator as air is trapped in it’s shaft. Pine Shavings also work well. I like to kick the shavings with my boot in order to loosen it up and create a soft, insulated area. My silkies do not use nesting boxes and just pick a corner of the floor. It is important to keep these corners clean and fluffy.

You may want to heat your coop with panels. These can be placed near nesting boxes in order to raise the nearby temperature. Heated dog mats can be placed in areas where eggs are laid. Even seedling mats can raise the temperature where the egg is sitting and prevent cracking. Survival blankets or hand warmers can also be used in the egg laying area.

Consider insulating the top, bottom and outer walls of your nesting boxes or packing straw around the outside for winter. Position your nesting boxes so that they face east or south blocking cold wind. Make sure that there are no ground level drafts in your coop. I find that eggs can be laid anywhere. Most frozen eggs that I find are laid near the pop door or in the run. Hang clear plastic tarps up in your run to use as a wind barrier on the north and west sides.

When I collect eggs during cold weather, I place them in cardboard egg cartons. This helps to insulate and keep the eggs somewhat warmer. It also keeps them from knocking into each other as I carry them. Eggs often crack after they have been taken out of the nesting box and are jostled around in the cold.

It is also ok to just not let chickens out into the run in very cold weather. They will be fine in the coop and their heat can help keep the eggs warmer. In the wintertime, each egg is precious.

Victoria J. Peterson

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Chicken First Aid Kit – Be Prepared

January 5, 2019April 22, 2020 by vjppoultry, posted in New Silkies

Chickens are like all other animals. They can become injured or sick and require immediate care in order to recover. A fight can occur between birds causing injury or your bird could be attacked by a predator. An unexpected illness can leave you scratching your head on how to care for your patient. I recommend that you prepare for these situations by having a stocked first aid kit handy and ready to use.

If your bird has been attacked and has an open, bleeding wound you will need to first clean the area. Hydrogen Peroxide or chlorhexidine solution is good for this. After the wound is cleaned apply Vetericyn, neosporin or triple antibiotic ointment to help the wound heal. Vetrap bandaging or non stick guaze pads are nice because they don’t stick to feathers when removed. After the wound has healed apply Blu Kote which will dye the area blue making it less attractive to other birds. If pain relief is needed use 5 aspirin (325 mg) to one gallon of water and use in waterer.

If your bird is not feeling well it is important to have on hand a variety medicines to help, once you diagnose the problem. Epsom salts are great for soaking hen’s bottoms who are egg bound. Preparation H can help with prolapsed vents. Vetrx is great for relieving congestion and stress. Place it near nostrils. Eye Wash is great for cleaning out eyes that become gunky. It is a good idea to have a wormeron hand if you discover worms in your bird’s chicken poo.A Mite and Lice treatment is handy to have at a moment’s notice. Having Corid ready to go for coccidiosis can be a life saver. Nutri Drench or Save a chick can help with fast vitamins to the system. Vaseline is handy for frostbite or scaly leg mites. Tylan is used when you need to give a dose of antibiotics to your bird.

Things of a general nature to include in your chicken first aid kit would include: Q-tips, Pet nail trimmer, cornstarch (stop bleeding) , Feeding syringe or dropper. latex gloves should be used so that germs are not transferred between you and the patient. A small scissors and tweezers are also handy to have nearby.

Create a sick bay area area for your bird to rest and recover in, away from the rest of the flock. Animal crates or Kennels are wonderful for this. Use soft comfortable bedding or puppy pads inside. Food and water cups can hang on the wire sides of the kennel. Watch to make sure that your bird is eating and drinking. You may have to hand feed if they are not. Exact Hand Feeding is a product made for birds to use when they can’t eat on their own. When it is time to reintroduce your bird back to the flock, remember that she will be a stranger to them and the pecking order will need to be established again.

Store all of your chicken first aid equipment together in some kind of tool box. That way, you won’t be searching all over the house for items during times of emergency. Have the phone number of a vet who knows something about treating chickens. It is easier to do this ahead of time rather than trying to locate someone later. Having a stocked first aid kit can give you a sense that you will be able to handle any emergency that occurs.

Victoria J. Peterson