Tips and Tricks for Broody Silkies

20170618_171718    Silkies are a breed of chicken that goes broody regularly.  This is important to know because the first time you experience it you may fear that your hen has developed some strange malady . I have people call me and are sure that something terrible is wrong with their silkie hen because she is acting so strangely.

A hen goes broody when she wants to set continuously on a clutch of eggs for 21 days and to have chicks hatch out. She may be sitting on real eggs, fake eggs, or imaginary eggs.  Her hormones are telling her it is time to become a mother and nothing is going to deter her from her goal.

Some hens will never go broody, some will go occasionally and some will go very frequently. Conversely, it is very difficult to make a hen go broody if she is not interested.  They have their own timetables.

The best way to tell if a hen has gone broody is when she wants to stay in her nest spot at all times.  Even at night she will still be sitting in her corner.   She’ll pull her feathers out, flatten her body over her eggs, growl or shriek if disturbed and peck or bite any hand that comes close.

A broody hen is wonderful if you are trying to hatch chicks.  Silkies make excellent incubators.  Many people purchase silkies for the sole purpose of having them hatch out other eggs. They can hatch other breeds of chicken’s eggs, duck eggs or even pea cock eggs.  They will then raise these offspring as well.

A hen has a hormone surge prior to egg laying that causes her to create a nest and prepare .  She will lay an egg every day.  This is her clutch. Then she will settle down to business and won’t be moved.  The broody period typically lasts for three weeks.

Broody hens will stop laying eggs and pluck out their breast feathers. This is known as “feathering the nest”.  They only leave the nest for short periods of time to eat, drink and poo.  Broody poo is easy to recognize as it is a very large, smelly amount.

Broody hens will lose weight. They can actually starve themselves if  they take it too far.  They will sit in their nesting box for 24 hrs a day and almost look as if they have gone into a trance.

Broodiness can be contagious and can lead to other hens going broody too.  Sometimes I will have four or five in a heap together.  One hen will come over and lay an egg and the broodies will all fight over who gets to sit on the egg.  When one hen isn’t looking they will steal it and keep passing the egg around between them.

The key to breaking a broody hen is to cool her abdomen and vent area.  It is the elevated temperature that signals her hormones so that she will continue to sit.

The best way to break a broody hen is to contain her in a wire bottomed cage. Put it up on a saw horse so that air can flow underneath. This air flow will help to cool down her vent area.  A bird or parrot cage is often used. The best would be a rabbit hutch that is already up on legs. People call these cages “Broody Breakers.”  Make sure that she has food and water but no bedding.

Other tricks to break them would include things such as collecting the eggs quickly and not allowing her any to sit on.  Remove the hen from the nest and put her out in the run with lots of interesting treats to eat. Put frozen water bottles or ice cubes in the nest.   Remove all nesting material and close down that area of the coop.

I have tried the water method.  You dip the bottom of the hen in water in order to cool her down.  This needs to be done on a warm, summer day so that she does not become too chilled.

If you are determined to break her, break her sooner rather than later.  The longer she is allowed to sit, the longer she will need to stay in the cage and the longer it will take her to get back to laying eggs.

I do not break my broodies. I just leave them alone and let them cycle through it.  Eventually, they all give up and go back to their former social existence.  Keep a close eye on your broodies and make sure there is food and water close by especially if it is a hot day.

The most inconvenient thing about a hen being broody is that it is no longer laying eggs.  Remember that she probably still has eggs under her because she is stealing other hen’s eggs. It is important to collect them every day or you may end up with a hatch of baby chicks.

Whether you decide to break your broody or not, silkie hens will give you plenty of experience with how to handle broodiness.  Good luck with your silkie hens!

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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Silkies for Sale – 6/17/17

What To Expect at a State Vet Inspection

20170610_095751  VJP Poultry is proud of the fact that it is a Minnesota state inspected chicken hatchery. But, what does that mean? How are hatcheries inspected and by whom?  These are all great  questions that I get asked regularly from my poultry customers.

The Minnesota Board of Animal Health is the official animal disease control and eradication agency for the state of Minnesota.  In order to be a part of the National Poultry Improvement Plan (NPIP) and to receive the Breeding Flock Facility Permit, you need to have your flock tested yearly for Pullorum and have a state veterinarian come out and physically inspect your property.  This is set up through the Minnesota Poultry Testing Laboratory located in Willmar,   Minnesota.

A State Vet will call and set up a time for them to come out and inspect.  Our state vet is Dr. Susan McClanahan.   She is wonderful.  She arrived in her full biosecurity uniform taking every precaution to make sure that poultry diseases are not spread from one farm to another.

We took a tour of VJP Poultry while she observed, asked questions and completed her form.  First stop was the chick room/brooder area. She inspected for cleanliness and asked me questions about sales records.

Then we went down to the incubation and hatching area.  We discussed egg collection, egg identification and sanitation. We also talked a little about the Avian Flu and where it was popping up this year.  Minnesota is very much on top of things when it comes to bird flu. They take disease  very seriously and appreciate the fact that small hatcheries like ours are willing to be a part of the inspection program.

We then went outside and Dr. Sue inspected the breeding flocks and asked questions about pest control, bird disposal and biosecurity measures we take. She had some great signs for us to put up that drew attention to bio – secure areas.

VJP Poultry once again passed and received our Breeding Flock Facility Permit.  This permit allows us to sell chicks under 5 months old, sell hatching eggs and sell at poultry swaps.  Since we have completed the tests for pullorum, 4-Hers do not need to have their birds retested before they show at a fair.

State inspections are professional, informative and enjoyable. I look forward to mine every year at VJP Poultry.  I always come away with new information to help improve the health of my flock.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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Silkies for Sale – 6/10/2017

Newborn Silkie Chick Management

20170323_121817Sometimes people call VJP Poultry and tell me that their newborn chicks aren’t doing well. Together, we try to trouble shoot and figure out exactly what is causing these chicks to fail.  Careful chick management is important to the health of your newborns.  I will try to highlight some of these things that could be effecting your chicks and give you some tips on how to improve your system.

Newborns need to be kept very warm. Sometimes people go too far. If you keep your brooder at too high of temperature dehydration and vent pasting can occur. Chicks that are panting and are trying to escape to the edge of their brooders are telling you that it is too warm for them.  On the other hand, keeping the brooder at too low a temperature can cause chilling and smothering as the chicks crowd together to stay warm. My tip would be to set up your brooder and heat lamp ahead of time before the chicks arrive. Take the temperature of different areas in the brooder.  Make sure that there is enough room so that the chicks do not have to constantly be under the hottest part of the brooder.  Keep the brooder away from drafts and chilly spots like basement floors.

Ventilation is also important. Fresh air must be available and be able to move throughout the brooder. Holes placed in the sides of a tub brooder can help keep air moving.

Poisoning of chicks can occur from using contaminated feed.  Feed that is old can have mold or fungus growing in it. Always use fresh feed.  Be  careful if you are using fermented feed. Don’t give treats right away, let them get used to their chick starter first. If you do add any treats, make sure that you area also giving them grit to help them grind it up in their crops.

Injuries can  occur, especially if newborns are handled too much.  Their legs muscles can easily be stretched too far if the try to walk on slippery surfaces.  Traction is needed. A tip would be to keep a sticky shelf liner mat under the pine shavings. This will help legs to become stronger.  Bumps or pecks to the head can result in death especially if you have chicks with head vaults.  Baby chicks can be jumpers so be aware if young children are holding the chicks.

Make sure that there is plenty of floor space in the your brooder.   Overcrowding causes dampness in the litter which leads to Coccidiosis – the number one parasite killer in chicks.  Less feeder and waterer space causes starvation and dehydration in young chicks.  Make sure that your chick is eating and drinking.  You may have to dip its head in the water to show it how.  Electrolytes or sugar in the water can help a chick that appears to be fading and losing weight.  Vitamin supplements in the water are good too.

Clean your brooder and keep it dry.  Sometimes waterers can spill.  Damp shavings can harbor micro organisms that can cause infections.  I clean and sanitize my brooders once a week. Wash feeders and waterers.

Keep your chicks clean as well.  Inspect their bottoms for pasting up and carefully remove and built up poo. I inspect their feet also and remove and poo build up on the bottoms of their feet.

Watch out for predators.  Dogs, cats and other pets can harm your chicks.  Make sure your brooder is constructed safe and that it has a screen or lid on top of it.  Keeps pets out of the chick brooder area.

These were just a few suggestions on how to improve the odds that your chick will survive its infancy. The younger the chick, the more fragile it is and the more care that is needed to be taken.  Have fun and enjoy your newborn silkie chicks.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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