chicken blogs – Page 15

When Something is Wrong With My Silkie

June 27, 2017June 18, 2020 by vjppoultry, posted in New Silkies

Every morning as I open the pens and start the day with my silkies I look at each and every bird to make sure it looks happy and healthy. The best way to observe this is to make sure that each bird is moving and doing normal chicken things. If a chicken is not moving but is hunched in one spot, you should stop and take the time to diagnose what is the problem. Chickens should be moving unless they are sleeping , laying an egg, or are broody. Broodies will always be in the same corner and their bodies will be flattened over a nest. Sick birds are often in an unexpected spot. They may stay outside in the run when the other chickens have gone in to bed.

Chickens are very good at hiding signs that something may be wrong. This is because they do not want to attract the attention of a predator who will prey on the weakest member. The chicken pecking order also can cause a weaker member to be unmercifully pecked. No chicken wants to appear weak. This is why people often are confused as to why their bird is suddenly sick when they may have been hiding symptoms for some time.

It is important to spend time with your chickens in order to have a good idea of what is normal , typical behavior. I can tell in a quick glance which bird is sticking out of a group and not showing healthy behavior. Chickens have a faster metabolism than humans do so when illness hits, it progresses very quickly. Many times by the time the bird is showing symptoms it is too late. You will pick up a bird and find that it is extremely light in weight. This means it has probably not been eating for quite some time. Feel her crop to see if it is squishy or hard. Check her vent to see if it is clean. Check her crest for mites. How do her eyes look? Are they clear and bright? Is she making strange sounds? What does her poo look like? All of these questions will help you to make a diagnosis.

If you do suspect something is wrong, you should separate your bird . Keep it warm and give it some electrolytes, probiotics and apple cider vinegar in their water. Minced garlic or oregano is a natural type of antibiotic which you also can put in their water. Give it treats such as scrambled eggs to encourage it to eat. If you have a chicken that is hunched over, inactive, weak, coughing and sneezing you may want to see a vet. The vet will give them an shot of antibiotics . You could also get some Tylan from your feed store and give the shot yourself.

There are some first aid items that you should always have at home, just in case. Hopefully, you will not need to ever use them, but it is always a good idea to have them handy. Blue-Kote is an antibacterial/antifungal spray for wounds. Nutri-Drench are liquid vitamins and other nutrients to boost energy. I always have Corid on hand for coccidiosis . There are other products out there that are helpful. Check your local feed store and ask what they sell a lot of.

Vet bills are expensive so you need to be knowledgeable of what are typical ailments of chickens and what you can treat yourself. A great source to check out is Backyardchickens.com. They can help you diagnose what the problem is and give you ideas on how to treat it. There are many other web sites that deal with chicken ailments. I own The Chicken Health Handbook by Gail Damerow. Its a great book which I regularly consult.

Some typical problems include, Resiratory issues (sneezing , coughing) , eye problems (I use Visine in the eye) Sour or impacted crop, Egg bound hen, vent Prolapse, coccidiosis (treat with Corid), Salmonella, worms, and external parasites such as mites and lice.

Chickens are living beings and get sick like any other animal. It is important to be observant and treat what is treatable. Left untreated a chicken can die very quickly. Extra attention and love are an important part of the recovery.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com . VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul. We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available. Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

Silkies for Sale – 6/24/17

June 24, 2017June 24, 2017 by vjppoultry, posted in New Silkies

Tips and Tricks for Broody Silkies

June 19, 2017December 1, 2018 by vjppoultry, posted in New Silkies

Silkies are a breed of chicken that goes broody regularly. This is important to know because the first time you experience it you may fear that your hen has developed some strange malady . I have people call me and are sure that something terrible is wrong with their silkie hen because she is acting so strangely.

A hen goes broody when she wants to set continuously on a clutch of eggs for 21 days and to have chicks hatch out. She may be sitting on real eggs, fake eggs, or imaginary eggs. Her hormones are telling her it is time to become a mother and nothing is going to deter her from her goal.

Some hens will never go broody, some will go occasionally and some will go very frequently. Conversely, it is very difficult to make a hen go broody if she is not interested. They have their own timetables.

The best way to tell if a hen has gone broody is when she wants to stay in her nest spot at all times. Even at night she will still be sitting in her corner. She’ll pull her feathers out, flatten her body over her eggs, growl or shriek if disturbed and peck or bite any hand that comes close.

A broody hen is wonderful if you are trying to hatch chicks. Silkies make excellent incubators. Many people purchase silkies for the sole purpose of having them hatch out other eggs. They can hatch other breeds of chicken’s eggs, duck eggs or even pea cock eggs. They will then raise these offspring as well.

A hen has a hormone surge prior to egg laying that causes her to create a nest and prepare . She will lay an egg every day. This is her clutch. Then she will settle down to business and won’t be moved. The broody period typically lasts for three weeks.

Broody hens will stop laying eggs and pluck out their breast feathers. This is known as “feathering the nest”. They only leave the nest for short periods of time to eat, drink and poo. Broody poo is easy to recognize as it is a very large, smelly amount.

Broody hens will lose weight. They can actually starve themselves if they take it too far. They will sit in their nesting box for 24 hrs a day and almost look as if they have gone into a trance.

Broodiness can be contagious and can lead to other hens going broody too. Sometimes I will have four or five in a heap together. One hen will come over and lay an egg and the broodies will all fight over who gets to sit on the egg. When one hen isn’t looking they will steal it and keep passing the egg around between them.

The key to breaking a broody hen is to cool her abdomen and vent area. It is the elevated temperature that signals her hormones so that she will continue to sit.

The best way to break a broody hen is to contain her in a wire bottomed cage. Put it up on a saw horse so that air can flow underneath. This air flow will help to cool down her vent area. A bird or parrot cage is often used. The best would be a rabbit hutch that is already up on legs. People call these cages “Broody Breakers.” Make sure that she has food and water but no bedding.

Other tricks to break them would include things such as collecting the eggs quickly and not allowing her any to sit on. Remove the hen from the nest and put her out in the run with lots of interesting treats to eat. Put frozen water bottles or ice cubes in the nest. Remove all nesting material and close down that area of the coop.

I have tried the water method. You dip the bottom of the hen in water in order to cool her down. This needs to be done on a warm, summer day so that she does not become too chilled.

If you are determined to break her, break her sooner rather than later. The longer she is allowed to sit, the longer she will need to stay in the cage and the longer it will take her to get back to laying eggs.

I do not break my broodies. I just leave them alone and let them cycle through it. Eventually, they all give up and go back to their former social existence. Keep a close eye on your broodies and make sure there is food and water close by especially if it is a hot day.

The most inconvenient thing about a hen being broody is that it is no longer laying eggs. Remember that she probably still has eggs under her because she is stealing other hen’s eggs. It is important to collect them every day or you may end up with a hatch of baby chicks.

Whether you decide to break your broody or not, silkie hens will give you plenty of experience with how to handle broodiness. Good luck with your silkie hens!

Victoria J. Peterson

Silkies for Sale – 6/17/17

June 18, 2017June 18, 2017 by vjppoultry, posted in New Silkies

What To Expect at a State Vet Inspection

June 13, 2017December 1, 2018 by vjppoultry, posted in New Silkies

VJP Poultry is proud of the fact that it is a Minnesota state inspected chicken hatchery. But, what does that mean? How are hatcheries inspected and by whom? These are all great questions that I get asked regularly from my poultry customers.

The Minnesota Board of Animal Health is the official animal disease control and eradication agency for the state of Minnesota. In order to be a part of the National Poultry Improvement Plan (NPIP) and to receive the Breeding Flock Facility Permit, you need to have your flock tested yearly for Pullorum and have a state veterinarian come out and physically inspect your property. This is set up through the Minnesota Poultry Testing Laboratory located in Willmar, Minnesota.

A State Vet will call and set up a time for them to come out and inspect. Our state vet is Dr. Susan McClanahan. She is wonderful. She arrived in her full biosecurity uniform taking every precaution to make sure that poultry diseases are not spread from one farm to another.

We took a tour of VJP Poultry while she observed, asked questions and completed her form. First stop was the chick room/brooder area. She inspected for cleanliness and asked me questions about sales records.

Then we went down to the incubation and hatching area. We discussed egg collection, egg identification and sanitation. We also talked a little about the Avian Flu and where it was popping up this year. Minnesota is very much on top of things when it comes to bird flu. They take disease very seriously and appreciate the fact that small hatcheries like ours are willing to be a part of the inspection program.

We then went outside and Dr. Sue inspected the breeding flocks and asked questions about pest control, bird disposal and biosecurity measures we take. She had some great signs for us to put up that drew attention to bio – secure areas.

VJP Poultry once again passed and received our Breeding Flock Facility Permit. This permit allows us to sell chicks under 5 months old, sell hatching eggs and sell at poultry swaps. Since we have completed the tests for pullorum, 4-Hers do not need to have their birds retested before they show at a fair.

State inspections are professional, informative and enjoyable. I look forward to mine every year at VJP Poultry. I always come away with new information to help improve the health of my flock.

Victoria J. Peterson