Mice, Rats, Chickens, and Cats

20181031_160201-2You may not think that you have a rodent problem until Autumn comes around. Suddenly, you are seeing mice droppings where you didn’t see any before. Fall is the time of year that mice come in out of the cold and look for a warm place to spend the winter.  Your coop is the perfect place. It has soft bedding, food , water and it is safe from predators. Food is scarce in the outside world but both field mice and rats will set up shop in your hen house for the winter.

Chickens will sometimes catch and eat mice.  They are omnivores who enjoy a good meal of mouse meat, but mice are a big nuisance most of the time and can be dangerous to chickens.  If your birds tend to eat a lot of mice it is a good idea to worm them every fall. A good product is Wazine or safe guard.

Mice will eat chicken feed and contaminate it with their droppings.  They carry fleas, ticks, mites and lice.  Rats will kill baby chicks, eat eggs and chew through wire and wood.  Chickens are sound sleepers and mice will chew on their feathers and pull out feathers to use as their bedding.

Rodents in the coop stress out the hens which can lead to a drop in egg production. Rats will steal eggs.  Check the corners of the coop and nesting boxes for evidence.  You will see small black droppings and little nests where they sleep.

One way to keep mice and rats out is make sure that there are no holes through which they can enter at night.  Holes  and openings should be no larger than 1/2 inch. Mice, snakes, weasels and mink can get through openings as small as one inch.  Staple 1/4 inch hardware cloth over windows and vents and make sure that all holes are plugged.

Mint is known to be a natural rodent repellent.  Put fresh or dried leaves in nesting boxes as a coop freshener. Rodent Sheriff is made with peppermint oil. It is safe for kids and pets but rodents hate the smell. Spray it around where you don’t want mice to be.  Mice also do not like the smell of pine, which makes pine shavings an excellent choice for bedding.

One of the main reasons cities give for not allowing chickens is that people think mice are attracted to backyard coops. Keep your run and coop as clean as possible.  Do not throw food onto the ground for the birds to eat. The extra food will attract mice.  Change the bedding often in your coop to destroy any mice nesting areas.  Keep the grass clipped short around the coop and clean up any junkie areas where mice might live and hide.

Manage your compost pile.  Rats and mice love to pick through compost from your kitchen table leftovers.  Use an enclosed compost tumbler to keep mice and rats away from your compost area.

When food is left available, rats and mice will come. Store all chicken feed in a secure container. The smell of food alone will attract them. They can chew or gnaw through most things.  Feed bags are easily chewed through.  Rats can chew through plastic containers.  Putting food up high won’t help as mice and rats are excellent climbers. Use a galvanized metal bin with a locking lid to keep all animals out.

Use a feeder that mice and rats cannot access.  Grandpa’s Automatic feeder uses a treadle. The mouse would not be heavy enough to push the treadle down in order to get food. Don’t leave your feeder in the coop at night. It will attract mice to the coop. Chickens can’t see well in the dark and do not eat during the night anyway.

Rats and mice do not like light. They prefer darkness. Install sensor lights that will turn on if there is movement in the run. Use solar powered if your run is in a sunny spot or electric if you have access to electricity in your run.

There are many different types of traps for both mice and rats. Electric rat traps run on batteries and zap the rat dead, leaving no blood or gore. Snap traps work but just make sure to keep them away from the chickens which could set them off.  Rodents like to travel along walls, so set up traps closest to a wall.  Traditional bait is peanut butter.  Rats are wary of new objects in their territory.  Wait a few weeks before baiting traps so that they can become used to seeing them around.

Poisons are a last resort and should be used with extreme caution.  They are deadly to other animals especially your chickens.  If you have a huge infestation of rats or mice it is sometimes best to call a professional. If you see one mouse, most likely there are many more living there.

A cat can be a great mouser and handy to have around the chicken coop. Our family cat loves the chickens and enjoys spending time with them. Cats are naturally curious and are attracted to the movements of the chickens. Are cats predatory towards chickens?  It depends on the cat.  Family cats that have been taught that the chickens are an important part of your family’s routine will more than likely not try and kill your chickens. Chickens are larger than most cat’s prey.  Baby chicks can be a target. I always keep a screen over my brooder.  Our cat is fascinated by the babies but has always left them alone.  He likes to go into the chicken coop and eat the chicken’s food.  They, in turn , like to eat out of the cat’s dish.

When introducing cats to chickens for the first time make sure that there is fencing between the two.  The next step is face to face introduction.  With a bit of training you will be able to keep both successfully in your backyard.

Cats that can be a problem are neighbor’s cats that have not been shown the value that the family places on the chickens.  There are stories of neighbor’s cats attacking and killing chickens and chicks.  Feral cats in particular that are hungry, may try and kill a chicken.  If you have issues with feral cats, you may want to try and trap and remove them from your area.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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How to Protect Your Chickens By Keeping Predators Away

20180527_124108Predators are probably the number one cause of chicken death in backyard flocks. I hear stories almost daily from people who lost their favorite bird due to animals that dig, climb or fly into their coop.  Predators are after chickens, eggs or both. Common chicken predators are birds of prey such as hawks, eagles or owls. Others include climbers such as raccoons, opossum, snakes, rats, mink, and weasel.  Diggers are skunk, fox, coyote and badger. Larger predators include, bears, fisher cats, and bob cats.  Neighborhood pets such as cats and dogs can also become predators.

The best thing that you can do to protect your chickens is to provide them with a strong, sturdy coop. If your coop has a wooden floor, you are going to need to elevate it off of the ground.  Wood will rot if it sits on the wet ground, creating entry for digging animals such as weasels, mink and rats.  If you have a dirt floor in your coop, you will need to bury fencing well below the ground level.  Cover all windows with hardware cloth.  Avoid chicken wire as many animals can chew through it or rip it apart. Chicken wire is great for keeping chickens in but not for keeping predators out. Always use half inch to one fourth inch hardware cloth for the sides, top and skirt of your coop and run.  For runs with dirt floors, bury hardware cloth two feet down and place a skirt two feet out.  Use plastic coated hardware cloth underground.  Even galvanized wire eventually wears down.

Small holes can be a problem.  They let in rats, weasels, mink and snakes.  Repair any small opening that you see. Make sure that you staple down your hardware cloth across vents and windows.  Then drill strips of wood across the edge so the wire can not be pulled up by raccoon.  Use padlocks on you large doors to keep out both humans and animals. On pop doors where the chickens come in and out, use a type of lock that raccoons cannot figure out. If a three year old can undo the lock then a raccoon can too.  A swivel lock works well.

Confine your chickens to a predator proof space at night.  Do not leave them out in the run even if you think that you have a secure run. You should be putting them into their coop before dusk. Predators are most active at dusk and dawn.  Don’t wait for them to come in on their own.  Call them in before sundown and don’t let them out until after sunrise.  If you are often gone you may want to invest in an automatic door opener .

Your run should be as secure as your coop. Placing a roof over the run is the best way to keep predators from landing or climbing into the run.  Use 1/2 to 1/4 inch hardware cloth up the sides of the run, under the dirt flooring and out as a skirting.   Every day you should be observing around the outside of your run for signs of burrowing or chewing.  Fox take several days to burrow under a run and you should be seeing signs of it. A   game cam will help you get an idea of what type of predators are visiting you at night and what their typical behavior is.

If you do not have a roof over your run, cover it with an aviary net for added protection against birds of prey but remember that climbing predators will not be stopped by it. Place objects that make  noise or reflect light to deter birds of prey.  Hanging CDs or disco balls that reflect light frighten birds away. Bird scare tape also works as do decoy animals or eye scare ballsHawk stopper netting is also effective.

Keep the area around your coop neat and clean. Brush and long grass provide hiding places for predators.  Store feed in tightly covered metal barrels. Keep feeders in the coop or run even if your chickens free range during the day.  Open feeders attract wild birds and other small animals. If your hens free range, consider getting a rooster. He will be watchful and give the alarm to take cover if anything attacks.   Other good guard animals include Great Pyrenees dogs, any other dog, donkeys, llamas, geese or guinea hens.

Electric poultry fencing can be set up as boundaries for your chicken’s free ranging.  It will deter smaller animals. If you live in bear country, you may want some electric fencing around your coop. You will need a charger,  some wire and insulators.

Install motion activated lights which will surprise and scare off predators. Night Guard or The Wikomo uses light and sound to deter pests.  Even well placed predator urine can scare away animals you don’t want around.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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