Mice, Rats, Chickens, and Cats

20181031_160201-2You may not think that you have a rodent problem until Autumn comes around. Suddenly, you are seeing mice droppings where you didn’t see any before. Fall is the time of year that mice come in out of the cold and look for a warm place to spend the winter.  Your coop is the perfect place. It has soft bedding, food , water and it is safe from predators. Food is scarce in the outside world but both field mice and rats will set up shop in your hen house for the winter.

Chickens will sometimes catch and eat mice.  They are omnivores who enjoy a good meal of mouse meat, but mice are a big nuisance most of the time and can be dangerous to chickens.  If your birds tend to eat a lot of mice it is a good idea to worm them every fall. A good product is Wazine or safe guard.

Mice will eat chicken feed and contaminate it with their droppings.  They carry fleas, ticks, mites and lice.  Rats will kill baby chicks, eat eggs and chew through wire and wood.  Chickens are sound sleepers and mice will chew on their feathers and pull out feathers to use as their bedding.

Rodents in the coop stress out the hens which can lead to a drop in egg production. Rats will steal eggs.  Check the corners of the coop and nesting boxes for evidence.  You will see small black droppings and little nests where they sleep.

One way to keep mice and rats out is make sure that there are no holes through which they can enter at night.  Holes  and openings should be no larger than 1/2 inch. Mice, snakes, weasels and mink can get through openings as small as one inch.  Staple 1/4 inch hardware cloth over windows and vents and make sure that all holes are plugged.

Mint is known to be a natural rodent repellent.  Put fresh or dried leaves in nesting boxes as a coop freshener. Rodent Sheriff is made with peppermint oil. It is safe for kids and pets but rodents hate the smell. Spray it around where you don’t want mice to be.  Mice also do not like the smell of pine, which makes pine shavings an excellent choice for bedding.

One of the main reasons cities give for not allowing chickens is that people think mice are attracted to backyard coops. Keep your run and coop as clean as possible.  Do not throw food onto the ground for the birds to eat. The extra food will attract mice.  Change the bedding often in your coop to destroy any mice nesting areas.  Keep the grass clipped short around the coop and clean up any junkie areas where mice might live and hide.

Manage your compost pile.  Rats and mice love to pick through compost from your kitchen table leftovers.  Use an enclosed compost tumbler to keep mice and rats away from your compost area.

When food is left available, rats and mice will come. Store all chicken feed in a secure container. The smell of food alone will attract them. They can chew or gnaw through most things.  Feed bags are easily chewed through.  Rats can chew through plastic containers.  Putting food up high won’t help as mice and rats are excellent climbers. Use a galvanized metal bin with a locking lid to keep all animals out.

Use a feeder that mice and rats cannot access.  Grandpa’s Automatic feeder uses a treadle. The mouse would not be heavy enough to push the treadle down in order to get food. Don’t leave your feeder in the coop at night. It will attract mice to the coop. Chickens can’t see well in the dark and do not eat during the night anyway.

Rats and mice do not like light. They prefer darkness. Install sensor lights that will turn on if there is movement in the run. Use solar powered if your run is in a sunny spot or electric if you have access to electricity in your run.

There are many different types of traps for both mice and rats. Electric rat traps run on batteries and zap the rat dead, leaving no blood or gore. Snap traps work but just make sure to keep them away from the chickens which could set them off.  Rodents like to travel along walls, so set up traps closest to a wall.  Traditional bait is peanut butter.  Rats are wary of new objects in their territory.  Wait a few weeks before baiting traps so that they can become used to seeing them around.

Poisons are a last resort and should be used with extreme caution.  They are deadly to other animals especially your chickens.  If you have a huge infestation of rats or mice it is sometimes best to call a professional. If you see one mouse, most likely there are many more living there.

A cat can be a great mouser and handy to have around the chicken coop. Our family cat loves the chickens and enjoys spending time with them. Cats are naturally curious and are attracted to the movements of the chickens. Are cats predatory towards chickens?  It depends on the cat.  Family cats that have been taught that the chickens are an important part of your family’s routine will more than likely not try and kill your chickens. Chickens are larger than most cat’s prey.  Baby chicks can be a target. I always keep a screen over my brooder.  Our cat is fascinated by the babies but has always left them alone.  He likes to go into the chicken coop and eat the chicken’s food.  They, in turn , like to eat out of the cat’s dish.

When introducing cats to chickens for the first time make sure that there is fencing between the two.  The next step is face to face introduction.  With a bit of training you will be able to keep both successfully in your backyard.

Cats that can be a problem are neighbor’s cats that have not been shown the value that the family places on the chickens.  There are stories of neighbor’s cats attacking and killing chickens and chicks.  Feral cats in particular that are hungry, may try and kill a chicken.  If you have issues with feral cats, you may want to try and trap and remove them from your area.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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How to Effectively Control Chicken Dust

Snapchat-504766167-1Chicken dust can drive you crazy.   It is that fine white powder that works its way into every crevice and surface it can find.  If you keep brooder chicks in your house, you will find chicken dust all over your home.  Your outdoor coops can be very dusty as well to the point of making you gag every time you enter .the front door.

Chicken dust and poultry dust are different things. Chicken dust is a mixture of chicken feed, bedding material, bird droppings and feathers and dander from a chicken.  Poultry dust is a chemical powder that you buy and use in your coop and on your bird to prevent mites and lice.  We will be discussing chicken dust in this article.

There are four main things that can cause chicken dust.  The first is made by chickens themselves and it is the number one cause of the dust.  This is chicken dander.  Dander is microscopic flakes of dried dead and shed skin.  It can also come from the shafts of their feathers.  Because chicks grow quickly, their skin cells are constantly turning over and shed off of their bodies.  If your chicks are less than 18 weeks old they are constantly molting and growing feathers.  The cuticle that sheathes the pinfeathers as they emerge, break off and contribute to the dust.  Any age chicken that is going through a molt is creating more chicken dust than they usually would.

The second creator of chicken dust is chicken feed.  If you are using crumbles such as chick starter, the fines (very fine, ground up dust from feed) are seen in your dish and at the bottom of your bag when you shake it out. As the chicks eat the food, they break it up into small pieces which fall into the feeding dish and create dust.  Using a pellet form of food for adult birds will help cut down on the dust from the feed.  Moving feeders outside will keep the dust from accumulating in the coop.

A third dust creator is is dry chicken poo. As it becomes hard and dry it can start to break down and become dust. Birds walking on it can help to make smaller pieces which leads to dust.  I try and scoop up poo from outside in the run and inside the coop whenever I see chunks of it. I like the Activarmr gloves for this and all chicken jobs. They are flexible for picking things up and the bottoms are waterproof.  Picking up poo keeps things looking cleaner and gets rid potential dust.

The last dust maker is from bedding.  Pine shavings can be very dusty if you are buying the small flakes. Small flakes can be very powdery and very saw dust lik. Try to buy large flakes or a dust free bedding.  Some bedding becomes dusty as it decomposes such as pine needles, straw and hay.

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Dust in the house is a real nuisance.  One way to prevent it is to keep your brooder in the garage and clean the brooder regularly.  Incubators inside the home attract a lot of dust due to hatching. Besides regular cleaning after use, us an air hose to blow out dust around the fan to keep the incubator in good working order. I use a feather duster to dust everywhere dust has accumulated inside on flat surfaces such as heat lamps hoods.  Other dusters such as microfiber dusters are great for those hard to get at spots.

I have a Neato robotic vacuum which I just love. Neato vacuums my entire house everyday. He helps me to be a better housekeeper by keeping extra things off of the floor so that he has more room to vacuum. This has led me to removing unneeded things off of tables and shelves so that I am able to dust faster and easier.

One other thing I have in the house is an air purifier.  We keep ours in the room where we do incubation and hatching. I keep the door to this room closed to keep the dust centralized.

If you have been out to our place, you know that we have our chick room off the garage. This winter we installed an air exchange with filter. It is filtering and exhausting  air to the outside of the house.  This also helps to reduce the humidity created by all of those little chicks breathing and reduces odor. The chicken dust is trapped by the filter.

In the outdoor coops we always leave every window and door open all year round so that the dust can find its way outside. We installed turbine ventilators in the roof to draw air out and cool things down.  Fans in the windows also blows unwanted dust out.

When I begin to clean the coops outside, I first remove all of the old bedding and empty it out. Then you can use a shop vac or a leaf blower to remove accumulated dust on the walls and ceiling.  Make sure that the windows and doors are wide open so that the dust can be blown out.  Wait ten minutes so that the dust in the air has settled and then wipe everything down with a wet cloth using a sanitizer or broad – spectrum disinfectant or a coop cleaner.  For more information about cleaning a chicken coop check out this blog.

Always wear protective masks and eye wear when cleaning the chicken coop. There is such a thing as  occupational asthma for people who work in the poultry industry.  Always protect your airways with disposable face masks.   You should also wear safety glasses to keep the dust out of your eyes.  Your health is important.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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The Mysterious Courtship Dance of Chickens

20161105_140426Most birds perform some kind of courtship dance as a prelude to actual mating. There are many magnificent displays in the avian world. Think about what peacocks do in their foreplay to get the lady bird in the mood with their beautiful tails.

Roosters will try to lure and entice their mates by displaying their beauty as well.  They attempt to attract their mates as they fan their wings in a romantic manner.   This is called a wing drag or wing flicking.  He will begin to make some croaking sounds as he gets closer to the hen.

The rooster performs a dance, circling the hen with his wing dropped stiffly towards the ground and quivering.  As he circles around her making his croaking noise, she will either encourage him or try to come up with an escape plan. In a perfect situation the hen will daintily squat down and raise her shoulders to flatten out, welcoming him in every way.

The rooster then leaps onto her back and balances precariously with one foot on either side of her shoulders.  This is called Threading.  He grabs the female’s neck with his beak and pulls back her head. He then lowers his vent opening (cloaca) by sliding his tail under the hen and she pushes her vent opening to meet with his.  There is no penetration.  The sperm released from the male is taken into the vent by the female.  From there the sperm travels up the oviduct where it awaits the release of an ovum.  The sperm can be actively alive in the hen for more than two weeks. This whole sexual act takes about two seconds.  When mating is done, the hen will rise, shake her feathers and go on with whatever she was doing beforehand.

The female chicken does not have a separate vaginal structure.  The vent or cloaca is used for both defecation and reproduction.  The males also have a vent or cloaca but they do not have a penis to actually penetrate the hen.  The rooster’s sexual organ is called the papilla. It is located inside of the bird, just inside of the vent.  It looks like a small bump.  Semen exits through it.  Ducks have a penis but chickens do not.

A hen lays an egg every day or so regardless if there is a rooster around or not.  In order for it to be a fertile egg, you will need the rooster to do his part.  Each time a yolk ripens, the sperm will fertilize it provided it is in the hen’s oviduct.   The white is created and then lastly the shell will form around the egg.  A fertilized egg will have a dot surrounded by a ring around it which looks like a bullseye on the yolk. In an infertile egg there will only be a white dot.  You can check this out by cracking open an egg and looking at it.

Chickens also engage in a little dance called “tid-bitting.”  If a rooster finds a choice bit of food that looks really tasty, he bobs his head up and down and makes his “tid-bitting” call.  He picks up the food and drops it repeatedly in order to attract the hen.  He may even offer the morsel in his beak.  It all looks very romantic and sweet but he is also establishing his role among the hens as a provider and leader.

There are many different recommendations as to how many hens per rooster to give you adequate fertility in your eggs.  Most say eight to twelve hens per rooster. If you have a heavier breed, the ratio would be lower. If you have a smaller breed the ratio would be higher.  If you would like more information on how to improve fertility in roosters check out this article.

You may want to isolate breeders to make sure that you know who the father is. Wait at least two weeks if your hen has been exposed to other roosters to make sure that all of the sperm inside the hen is no longer active.  If you are interested in showing poultry or are just interested in improving your flock you can set up breeding pens where you can isolate certain pairings in order to get certain types of chicks.

As winter ends and spring begins the testosterone in the roosters starts to rise.  Roosters will begin to mount challenges to each other as they fight for the rights to the hens.  You may want to separate the roosters, but remember, once you separate them it will be very hard to put them back together again.

Crowing is both an invitation to hens and a warning to other roosters in the area.  Serious fights can happen between roosters. They can use their sharp spurs as weapons.  Aggression when establishing dominance is normal behavior in the chicken world.  If you give them plenty of space, they will usually work the dominance hierarchy out themselves.  Chickens have strict pecking orders. The alpha rooster is at the top, then the hens and lastly the younger pullets and cockerels.

A rooster can mate up to thirty times a day depending on how many hens are available to him.  Not all roosters are interested in mating or are built for it.  You should have a similar sized rooster matched with a similar sized hen for best chance of fertilization. If you want to try and improve the virility of your rooster, you may want to add some vitamins and electrolytes to his water or some Rooster Booster Poultry Cell. A little B-12 would perk him up a little too.

Most roosters are very interested in mating with the hens. They will chase hens causing them to lose feathers. Constant harassment on the part of the rooster can cause bald spots on the hen’s back. The roosters do have favorite hens which they will mate repeatedly.  You may want to invest in hen saddles.  They protect the hen’s back and sides.  They can also be worn to prevent self-picking or feather picking from other hens.  Pick no more and Blu-Kote are also products that can help prevent the picking and aid in treatment . Vetericyn Spray will help to treat wounded birds as well.

If you want to aid in feather grow back, Feather Fixer feed can help increase protein in their diet. You may also want to trim the spurs and toenails on your rooster using a diagonal wire cutter.   Information on how to do this is Here.  This can help to prevent any wounds occurring on your hens.

A well mannered rooster who dances for his ladies and waits for them to accept him is a joy to behold. Your pens will be much calmer if you keep and breed roosters with this special ability.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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My Experience With VJP Poultry from Cage-Free Mom

20180206_141456-1When we decided to get chickens, we knew we wanted them as pets and not for meat production. That led us down a rabbit hole of research and getting opinions from people we trusted. We decided that we were going to get some Silkie chickens. They are known for being friendly , beautiful, small and easy as well as having fairly good egg production (3 per week). Everything we wanted in our first batch of chickens.

A friend of mine referred us to VJP Poultry in Forest Lake, Minnesota. One of her friends had some show chickens from VJP that had done very well in the 4-H program. We were relieved to find someone near us that had quality chickens. They are NPIP tested and hold a State of Minnesota Hatchery Permit. We felt confident that we could get some great chicks from here.

At that point I still wanted to do some more research on how to care for our new chickens and how to sex them so we wouldn’t end up with all roosters! The internet gave me a bunch of mixed information (turns out it is nearly impossible to sex Silkie chicks) so I decided to reach out to VJP Poultry and see if they could give me any nuggets of information! The response time was very fast and they were very patient with all of my questions. I was relieved that they have a rooster return program. I was really nervous about this because in our area, we are not allowed to have roosters. If we do end up with any roosters we can return them to VJP and they will re-home them. Every question was answered and we were welcomed to come out and see their options.They do post weekly on their Facebook Page VJP Poultry Facebook which is very helpful. You can see what colors and ages are available as well as the pricing of them.

Not only do they have great customer service but they also run blog posts on their website. They have links to items you can purchase for your chicks/chickens , articles on ventilation and how to keep your Silkies safe and happy during the winter.

We set a date and went out to see the chicks. Victoria (owner) met us and gave us some time in the chick room. It was nice to have some time to check all the chicks out and discuss our options without feeling the pressure of picking right away. When she came in, she was able to guide us in the right direction. We really wanted a few splash chicks so she went upstairs and brought down some 4 day old babies. We fell in love and decided to take them.

Along with the chicks, she provided us with some bedding and a little sheet giving us tips on how to care for young chicks as well as a copy of their certification.  We were very pleased with our experience and will be returning for all of our future Silkie purchases! I highly recommend them and if you are anywhere in MN or surrounding states, go check them out as they do not ship. Tell them Ashley with Cage-Free Mom sent you!

Stay tuned for pictures of our new chicks! (Shadow, Ducky, Butterscotch, Marshmallow & Fairy Potter)

You can find more blogs from Cage-Free Mom here.   Text and lower picture by Ashley Molin – The Cage-Free Mom

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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Silkies For Sale – 1/31/18