Rain, Chickens and Muddy Runs

20181008_100026-1A rainy day can mean time spent inside the coop or it can be an opportunity to scrounge around for bugs and worms. It all depends on what your chicken prefers.  It also depends on whether we are talking about a light, misty shower or a rain forest downpour.

Chickens do have water repellent feathers that can keep them dry for awhile.  The tighter the feathers, the more the rain will bead off them.  Rhode Island Reds have very tight feathers and can do well in the rain. Breeds such as silkies or polish can suffer in the rain as their feathering is very loose.

Birds that get soaked through to the skin can be at risk for hypothermia.  Symptoms of hypothermia in chickens are shaking, low body core temperature, pale or blue comb, pale sinus tissue, and slow labored breathing.  If you add a wind to that rain to create a wind chill, a bird can become ill very quickly.

If a thunderstorm hits, experienced chickens will run for cover either back to the coop or they will find a bush to hide under.  Young birds in their first year do not usually have the understanding of what is happening to them and will stand around getting wet. They will not look at the sky with their mouths open and drown as folk lore states.  But, they may need some help getting back to the coop.  Some birds get caught in the rain because hens higher in the pecking order will stand in doorways and not let them back in.  As a storm rolls in and the wind starts to pick up, the chickens will start heading for the coop. Then , when the storm is over, they will venture out again, looking for worms or other goodies brought by the wet weather.

If chickens are repeatedly being exposed to rain without the opportunity to dry off, they can develop respiratory issues and fungal infections at the base of their feathers. A warm bath with a blow dry afterwards can be very helpful. A dog blower is a great way to dry off a chicken quickly.

It is helpful to give them some kind of shelter from the wind and rain besides going back in the coop.  Give your run a cover using metal corrugated sheeting   .  If you have any leaks in your coop, use tarps to keep the rain from coming inside.

No one wants to deal with a muddy run. Mud is not healthy for chickens. It can promote internal parasites and increase issues with bumble foot. Muddy runs look awful, are smelly, makes the chickens look unkempt  and attracts a ton of flies in warm weather.

There are a few things that you can do to prevent a muddy run in the first place. Make sure that when you are choosing a site for your coop and run, place it on high ground. Don’t put it in low lying areas.  If you have no choice, put down gravel to try and build up the area before you build your coop.  Make sure that you build up your run footings higher than you think  you will need.  Add retaining boards at the foot of the run fence.  Natural drainage works best, but you might need a tiller to stir the ground up and make it drain better.

While it is still the dry season, place down patio pavers above a layer of level gravel by doors that get a lot of traffic such as pop doors or human entrances. A slanted roof will keep your chickens dry and help with the snow later in the winter.  Put gutters and down spouts on all roofs.  Make sure that the down spouts lead the water well away and down hill.

Dig a ditch to intercept water coming from higher ground and lead it elsewhere. If you look at the bottom picture, we have a coop at the bottom of a hill.  We dug a small trench and placed landscape blocks to redirect the water to a lower area.

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Many people have a grass or dirt run for their chickens. This can quickly turn into mud. We use a combination of pea rock and gravel for the floor of our runs. You can have gravel and pea rock delivered to your home from landscaping companies. They will dump it in your drive way and you can wheel barrow it where it needs to go.  If you have a very small run, you can also buy pea rock in bags.

Wait until it is the dry season for laying down sand and gravel. The wet mud will make your rock sink down too much.  Pea rock will need to be dug up about every three years in order to provide better drainage to your run. When it gets mixed with chicken poo, shavings and other things that can break down and decompose, it can lead to a sloppy mess. By digging it up and replacing it, you will be in better shape when flooding rains hit.

If it has rained hard and you are looking for a temporary fix, you will want something to lift the birds out of the mud and absorb the moisture.  Coarse bark or wood chips are good and can last a long time.  Medium size wood chippings are ok.  Straw, hay or wood shavings are the least useful but are better than nothing. They tend to break down quickly.  Keep an eye on things and refresh whenever needed.

If your coop floods, change out the bedding and use fans to dry it out.  If the water continues to be deep, put down pallets so your bird can stay above water.  Turn off the breaker in your house that serves your chicken coop. Standing water and electricity are not a good combination.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

 

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Building a Coop for Silkie Chickens

20180527_124135-1Silkie chickens have slightly different requirements when it comes to housing.  Silkies are different from other breeds of chickens in several ways and these differences can be reflected in the type of coop you end up designing or purchasing.  The only chickens we have at VJP Poultry are silkies so we are always thinking of ways to improve housing with their uniqueness in mind.

The first coop we had was a refurbished ice house. This worked perfect for our needs. It was built very sturdy and was well insulated for winter. We added electricity out to it, put in nest boxes and roosting poles and had a ramp going down to a chain link fence enclosed run.  We had a variety of breeds of chickens to start out with but I really fell in love with the silkies.   I found that the silkies did not “fly” up to the roost pole with the others but would sleep on the floor directly under them. The next morning they would be covered in poo from the roosting birds above them.  They also did not use the nesting boxes, but preferred to find a corner on the floor in which to lay their eggs. Silkies go broody often but can’t fly up to nesting boxes that are very far off of the ground.

In a few years we found a second ice house to refurbish as we continued to expand our chicken habit. By now we only had silkies in our coops. We did not bother putting in a roosting pole or nesting boxes.  We made sure that the ramp to the ground was a long gradual incline.  Silkies do not like high ramps, especially with their eyesight often being blocked by feathers.  I find it best to trim above and below the eyes so that they can find food and water.

The third coop we built ourselves. We overbuilt it, but I was glad that we did. It is very sturdy and tall. There is a long walkway inside with four sections of divided pens. Everything is easily stored inside of the coop, such as food, bedding, brooms and assorted tools. It has electricity.  The pen walls and floor are painted with industrial enamel which is super easy to keep clean. The other coops had plastic sheeting on the floor and sides. I scrubbed them weekly but they eventually started to come away from the walls.  The enamel paint is much easier. A silkie pen needs to be kept neat and tidy. You want them to be looking at their best and poo stains are not attractive.

Now we are building our fourth coop and using all of the information gained from the other coops, we are able to have the best silkie coop possible. We started by making the floor of the coop. You want to make it up off of the ground but at the same time as low as possible for silkies. They have a hard time with steep inclines, so the ramps need to be long and low.  Next the walls were built and the roof rafters put on. We put on a metal roof with a steep slant. We want the snow sliding easily off.  The roof has long overhangs.  In the future we will put on gutters.  Silkies do not do well in the rain. Their fluffy feathers do not let water bead off of them. When they get wet, they look drenched.

We installed windows up high, so that there is plenty of air movement. Silkies do not do well with drafts so you want that air moving up above them.  Ventilation is very important to the health of your birds. I keep windows open at all times. Use hardware cloth stapled over the window screens to keep predators from making their way inside.

When making the run, you will want to lay down hardware cloth on the inside and as a skirt around the outside to keep digging predators from making their way in. We piled gravel on top of the the hardware cloth and placed pea rock on top of that.  Silkies have beautiful feathered feet. You want to protect those feathers by having soft bedding or even using dirt or sand in the coop or run.  Large rocks can often break off foot feathers, so use as small of rock as you can.

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We covered the run with a metal sloping roof.  Hawks can be a big problem for silkies. They are small enough to be lifted and taken away. Their crests are large and impedes their ability to look up.  Even their coloration can make them a standout when free ranging. Try to limit their free ranging to when you can be there to watch out for them. Otherwise a covered run is their best protection from flying predators.

Know the silkie predators in your area and design your coop with them in mind.  If your predators are diggers like fox, make sure that you have buried hardware cloth around your run. If you have trouble with weasels or mink, make sure that all small holes are plugged up and windows are secure with hardware cloth.  Larger animals such as bear will need electric wire around the outside.

If you don’t want to build a coop yourself, there are a few coops that are available for sale that are good for silkies. Look for something that is all one level such as this.  The smaller the ramp the better. Coops that are described as rabbit hutches are often on one level .  Look for sturdiness in these pre-made coops that can withstand the elements and predators.  If you live somewhere with a cold climate, you will need to insulate and possibly have heat lamps.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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