New Silkies – Page 52

The Expert Way to Cook and Peel a Hard Boiled Egg

October 5, 2018December 1, 2018 by vjppoultry, posted in New Silkies

perfect bird 4 Fresh, free range boiled eggs are notoriously difficult to peel. We are left with chunks of egg white sticking to shell pieces. There are divots left all over the surface of your egg. This is not something that you want to use to make fancy deviled eggs with.

We know that fresh, hen- laid in your backyard eggs are the best tasting eggs there can be. They also tend to have harder, thicker shells than grocery store eggs which makes peeling more difficult. Your own chicken eggs may not be washed either. This means that the “bloom” is still on the egg which also makes peeling harder.

The fresher the egg, the more difficult it is to peel cleanly. Just laid eggs contain an amount of dissolved Carbon Dioxide. The Carbon Dioxide is what makes very fresh, raw egg whites appear cloudy when you first crack them open. The Albumen or egg white tends to stick to the inner shell membrane due to the Carbon Dioxide making a less acidic environment. The less Carbon Dioxide, the less the egg white will stick.

The hen applies a protective coating to the shell of each egg laid. This coating is called “the bloom.” The bloom slows the rate of Carbon Dioxide loss and also prevents contamination from micro organisms that are trying to reach the egg.

If you don’t wash your eggs, that means that the bloom is still there and it will slow down the Carbon Dioxide loss. You need to wait an average of 10 days for the PH to be ideal for peeling. Grocery store eggs have usually been washed and the bloom has been removed. This is one reason why store eggs peel easier. Store eggs have usually been in storage longer and are not as fresh as we may think. This all allows for more Carbon Dioxide to be released from these eggs.

You may have hear of the float test. If an egg is placed in water and it floats, it means that it is an old egg and you should not eat it. It floats because with the loss of Carbon Dioxide, air enters through the shell and is trapped between the shell and the membrane. The air is lighter than the water causing the egg to float.

Now that we know that older eggs are easier to peel we can discuss cooking methods. You can boil eggs on the stove top. Boil the water first, then carefully add the eggs. I would recommend using a spoon to slowly lower the eggs into the water. Some people like to add a little baking soda into the water. Boil for 13 minutes and then place the eggs in ice water for 5 minutes. The ice causes the egg inside to contract, pulling it away from the membrane.

Steaming is a very popular way to hard boil your eggs. It is very simple. Using a steamer, you place water under the eggs. The eggs do not sit in the water. There is a timer that lets you know when they are finished. I use a Hamilton Beach egg cooker. It also poaches eggs as well. Steaming cooks evenly and there is less risk of cracking the shell than dropping the egg into a pan. When you are done steaming, place the eggs in an ice water bath. Chilling eggs immediately after boiling ensures that they come out perfectly shaped with no air space indentations on their fat end.

Other good steamers are DASH egg cooker that has an auto shut off to prevent over cooking and Elite Cuisine Maxi Matic. If you like to use an Instapot you can pressure cook an egg in 5 minutes using a cup of water.

One fun gadget is a Hard Boiled Egg Peeler. You place the egg and water inside of the devise and then shake it up and down. The shaking causes the egg to crack and lets water get between the egg and the shell. This makes peeling very easy.

One last tip is about peeling the shell off of the egg. Peel it under running water from the sink. This works on the same principle as the gadget above. The water is finding its way under the egg shell making peeling much easier.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com . VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul. We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available. Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

20181001_111049-1

Why do Hens Stop Laying?

September 29, 2018March 13, 2022 by vjppoultry, posted in New Silkies

Hens normally lay one egg a day, but we all know that this isn’t always the case. In fact, we may often wonder why they seem to take breaks or even stop laying for long periods of time. You can’t force a hen to lay an egg. There are many factors and variables that go in to whether or not your hen will grace you with an egg on any given day.

Your bird might be either too old or too young. Pullets typically start laying eggs at 18-20 weeks. Not all breeds start at the same time. A late maturing breed such as silkies may not start laying until 7-9 months. The first season of laying will be their best season. After that, they will gradually lay less and less with a large drop off after 4 years. A pullet that “comes of age” during the winter may not start laying until spring. You can tell by looking at their vent as to whether they are still laying. If the vent is soft and pliable, they are laying eggs. If the vent is stiff and not flexible, she may have stopped laying because she is too old.

Certain breeds do not lay as many eggs as other breeds. Good layers such as Rhode Island Reds or Buff Orpingtons can lay 200 eggs per year. Ameraucanes or silkies lay less than 100 per year. Chickens has a set number of eggs that they lay in their lifetime. Some go through that number very quickly and then become “spent hens.” Other birds that take breaks in their laying can lay eggs for a number of years beyond others.

If your bird is experiencing any illness, this will cause her to stop laying. Respiratory issues are a common problem in a flock. Becoming egg-bound would be another reason for egg production to stop. An egg could be stuck inside of the hen’s body. Gently feel around her abdomen area and you may feel the stuck egg. Add electrolytes and calcium to their diet. Apply a lubricant to her rear and give her a quiet, private place to lay her egg.

Nesting boxes are an important part of your hen’s egg production. Not having enough nesting boxes can be an issue. Hens need a private place to lay their eggs. You should have one box for every 4 hens. Boxes should be 18 inches off of the ground. Make sure that the boxes are not harboring parasites that can bite at hens while they are laying. Use poultry dust in the bottom of the boxes.

You may have a hen that doesn’t want to leave the nesting box. Broodiness is when a hen decides that she is going to hatch out some eggs and start a family. Even if you remove the eggs, the hen can still continue to be broody. While she sits and waits, she will not lay any eggs. Broody hens sometimes will stay on a nest for three or more weeks patiently waiting for chicks. When she is finally done sitting she will begin to act normal again and start laying as usual.

Seasonal changes can make hens slow down. As daylight decreases the amount of eggs laid will decrease as well. Temperature and sunlight will have a big influence on egg laying. Hens know that winter is not a good time to be raising a family and egg production will drop off or stop. Peak laying for hens is around June 21. They need between 14-16 hours of sunlight a day for egg production. You can use artificial light to fool hens into thinking that they should be laying. All you need is a small light fixture and an LED bulb set on a timer. Set it to go on early in the morning and add extra hours of daylight. Having a warmer temperature in the coop using heat lamps and bulbs will also increase egg production.

Molting occurs in the fall. This is when your hens start to lose their old feathers and grow new ones. Many hens take a break during molting because they are using all of their energy and protein into creating new feathers. They don’t have any protein left over to put into egg production. Poultry conditioner can help increase the amount of protein in your bird’s diet during the time of molt. After her new feathers have grown in she will begin to lay again. This can take anywhere from 3 to 16 weeks depending on the bird.

If your chicken’s dietary requirements aren’t being met, they will not be laying eggs for you. Your hen needs around 20 grams of protein to lay an egg. They also need calcium, phosphorus, vitamin D, fat and water. If your hen is of egg laying age, you could be feeding them Layer Feed which has the correct amount of nutrients needed for egg production. If you are feeding them something besides layer feed then you will need to offer Oyster Shell so that they are getting enough calcium to create egg shells. A couple of good treats to help with protein would be Scratch and Peck feeds as well as mealworms.

Even a few hours without water can cause hens to stop laying for a few weeks. Chickens drink 3 times as much water by weight as they eat. Make sure that their water does not become frozen in the winter by using heated bases and galvanized waterers .

Stress can also be a factor as to why your hen isn’t laying. A scare from a predator or a family pet can stop laying for several days. Trauma or injury to the bird will stop them from laying. Moving birds to a different pen or adding new flock members which disturbs their pecking order will also decrease laying as this causes stress. Hens do not like change of any kind. Change in the type of food you are feeding will cause stress. Going without food or water is stressful to birds. Overcrowding in your coop because of poor coop design will cause problems and delay laying. Weather that is extremely hot or extremely cold can throw them off of their lay schedule.

Lastly, remember if you let your birds free range they may be hiding eggs in places where you can’t find them. Hens can be sneaky that way as they try to find a private spot.

Victoria J. Peterson

How to Help Chickens Through Molting Season

September 23, 2018December 1, 2018 by vjppoultry, posted in New Silkies

Molting occurs in the late summer and early fall. Your run and coop will look as though a feather pillow has exploded and you may worry about what is happening to your chickens. Molting is perfectly normal. During this time of year your chickens will shed old, worn out feathers and replace them with new ones. It is also a time when hens take a break from laying and rest and rejuvenate. By winter they will have a new set of feathers to keep them warm and protect them from the outside elements.

We call the losing of feathers and the regrowing of new ones, molting. It occurs every year as the days get shorter and there is less daylight. During the molt, chickens typically stop laying eggs and use their down time to build up their nutrient reserves. It isn’t just lack of daylight that can trigger a molt. Molting can occur during times of stress, lack of access to food or water, or even after a bird has been broody.

Young chicks go through four cycles of molt. The first occurs between 1-6 weeks. They lose their down and begin to grow hard feathers. The second molt comes between 7-9 weeks. The third is between 12-13 weeks and the last is 20-22 weeks. That is why there are always loose feathers flying around the brooder and why there is so much dander dust settling on everything. After that, adult birds that are over 18 months will molt once a year usually during the fall. Both hens and roosters will molt.

Chickens will lose feathers in a sequence starting with the head and neck. It then moves down the back and across the chest and legs. The last set will be the tail feathers. The new feathers that emerge are called pin feathers. They are encased in a sheath that feels like plastic and has a porcupine look to it. The sheath either falls off or is removed by the preening of the bird. The new pin feathers will grow in following the same sequence as they were lost.

Molting will cause your bird to look different. Molting can cause some chickens to look unhealthy and lose weight. The chicken is putting all of its energy into feather production and its immune system is often at a low point. Chickens need to be well cared for during this time. Vitamins in the water can be helpful. You may see bald spots and a dull comb. Your bird will be moody and short tempered. There will be reduced, or a pause in egg production. Your bird will have an increased appetite for protein.

Different chickens molt at different rates. some will lose only a few feathers and grow them back in 3-4 weeks. Other chickens lose a lot of feathers and it may take 12-16 weeks to grow feathers back. Your chicken should never actually be completely bald when molting. The new feathers emerging are pushing out the old feathers. If your bird has bald spots near the vent it could be from mites. Another cause of bald spots is from feather picking. Use Blue Kote on any wound that can develop.

Your flock will not molt in unison. Different birds will be in different stages and molt at different rates. A “hard molt” is when the chicken loses most of its feathers in a short period of time. A “soft molt” is a slow process where they lose their feathers gradually. It could take as long as 4-5 months to complete a soft molt.

Changes to your bird’s diet during the molting process can help them through it easier. Feathers are made of 80-85% protein. Producing those feathers uses almost all the protein consumed by the chicken. This causes the hens to stop, reduce size or reduce quantity of eggs laid. Increasing the right forms of protein can help. Mealworms, cooked eggs, pumpkin seeds, Japanese Millet, fish, Grubblies, tuna and sardines, are all good forms of protein for chickens. Feather fixer is a higher protein feed to be used during molting season. Any high protein feed such as Gamebird Conditioner will be helpful.

Chickens should act normal during a molt even if they don’t look normal. If they are acting sick, then something else is wrong. Avoid handling your chickens during a molt. The newly growing feathers are very sensitive. They emerge through a shaft and can bleed heavily if damaged. It can be painful to your bird if you handle them too much. If the shaft breaks and bleeding occurs, use vetericyn wound and infection spray.

Remember that your chicken needs to be resting during this time. If you use a lamp in your coop to extend daylight hours, you may want to leave it off for six weeks in the fall to help your birds completely finish a molt. That way they can start laying again in top condition. Be careful with your light timing so that you won’t leave your birds without protection and have them end up going through a hard molt in the winter. Avoid introducing stress during a molt such as introducing new flock members or keeping them in too crowded of an area. Give them plenty of space and time and they will come through it with beautiful new glamorous feathers.

Victoria J. Peterson

Feed and Treats For Adult and Juvenile Chickens.

September 8, 2018April 27, 2020 by vjppoultry, posted in New Silkies

Chickens are Omnivores. They are opportunistic eaters. They will eat foods of both plant and animal origins. They love treats and are easy to spoil. What they are fed can make a huge difference in their egg production, reproduction ability and overall lifespan length. It is important that they are given foods that have good nutritional value and are natural for their behaviors as chickens.

When chicks are little they eat Chick Starter as their main source of food. At around 10 weeks they can begin Grower Feed. This feed is around 16% protein and is designed to sustain growth all the way to maturity. Gamebirds will need a higher protein content such as a Gamebird Conditioner feed. I feed my silkies Gamebird Conditioner which has a protein content of 20%. If you are raising meat birds they will need their own separate Meat Bird Grower Crumble for fast growing birds. They require a protein content of 20-24%. The basis of any good chicken diet is a high quality poultry pellet or crumble. Most if not all of its nutritional needs should come from that feed. It is complete and balanced and does not need anything added to it for optimal development of the bird.

Layer feed can be given once the pullets have begun laying eggs. It should not be given before that time as the higher calcium content can cause damage to their kidneys as they are not using the calcium for eggshell development. Layer feed should not be given to roosters as it can be detrimental to their kidneys as well. Layer feed is designed to provide optimum nutrition for birds laying eggs. It contains 16% protein and increased levels of calcium for proper shell creation. Average laying hens will consume 1/4 pound of feed per day depending on the size of the bird, weather conditions and level of productivity.

Another type of feed is All Flock. It is designed for adult birds but does not contain the added calcium. You can feed it to a mixed flock of ducks, geese, turkeys and chickens. When feeding this to laying hens, you will need to offer some Oyster Shell in order for them to get the needed calcium for shell development. Offer it in a separate bowl from regular feed and the hens will eat it as needed.

Scratch is a mix of cracked rolled or whole grains such as corn, barley, oats or wheat. It is low in protein and does not provide balanced nutrition such as a commercial feed would. However, as the name implies, it is food that is thrown on the ground and the chickens get to scratch around in the dirt for it. Scratching for food is a very natural behavior for chickens and is a good form of exercise for them. Only feed them as much scratch as they can totally consume in 20 minutes.

Table scrapes are routinely given to chickens but should be thought of as a treat. Most food scrapes are fine but some are better than others. Feed bread in moderation as it has little nutritional value. Cat and dog food are sometimes given during molting because of the high protein content. Citrus is usually frowned upon as it may interfere with calcium absorption and cause soft egg shells. Dairy products should be fed in moderation as chickens have a hard time processing large amounts of dairy. No dry beans or uncooked rice. Watch out for too salty or fatty foods.

Allow your chickens to free range and forage for food when you can. They love looking for bugs and green plants and the adventure of finding them. Do not feed your chickens grass clipping as this can cause impacted crop. Always provide commercial feed for them. They will not find enough food free ranging in a typical suburban yard.

One way to tame and bond your chicken to you is to occasionally give it some treats. There are many commercial treats available. Grubblies and Dried Mealwormsare natural insects that have been freeze dried or oven baked. A poultry Flock Block can be placed in the coop and left for the birds to gradually peck away at it. A poultry Suet Block is made mealworms and sunflower seeds. . Happy Hens Treats, Kaytee mealworm , and Manna Pro Harvest Delight are all good commercial treats. As a boredom buster use a treat ball to entertain and provide treats for your chickens.

Too much of a good thing can always be a problem. Chickens can become obese and develop fatty liver disease. Keep treats down to 20% or less of their regular diet. Make sure that their commercial feed is always available to them especially before evening. You want to make sure that the chickens go to bed with a full crop which not only keeps them warm but aids in the nightly development of the egg.

Victoria J. Peterson

Feed and Treats For Baby Chicks

August 29, 2018April 27, 2020 by vjppoultry, posted in New Silkies

The sooner you start your baby chicks with good nutritional habits the better off they will be their entire lives. Typically we are told that baby chicks don’t need anything to eat or drink for about 48 hours after they are hatched. They will be getting sustained by the yolk of the egg which they absorb into their bodies just before they break through the shell. This is why they can be sent by post office from hatcheries with nothing to eat or drink in their boxes. Research is now showing that chicks that are given food and water immediately after hatching have a better chance of survival and better growth. Yes, they can survive without food or water for the first few days but it is much better if they are given the opportunity to eat and drink right away.

Chick Starter is the ideal food for baby chick’s first week and should be the sole ration. Feed companies spend lots of time and money researching and preparing mixtures that provide optimum nutrition for growing chicks. Chick starter has sufficient protein, carbohydrates and vitamins to support growth. Chick starter should be given for at least the first six to eight weeks and can actually be given to adult birds as well. Do not try and mix your own feed at this point as it is crucial that baby newborn chicks have the nutrients they need to grow. If you get caught without chick starter when your chicks hatch, you can mash up hard boiled egg yolk with ground up oatmeal as a temporary substitute. Don’t give treats until they are very familiar with what the chick starter looks like. smells like and tastes like.

There are two types of chick starter, medicated and nonmedicated. Medicated chick starter comes with medication to prevent coccidiosis, an intestinal disease that interferes with nutrient absorption. If you keep your chicks in a clean brooder and do not let them have contact with adult birds or the ground, they do not need to have the medicated chick starter. If you brood a lot of chicks (over 50) and it is hot and humid outside, then you might consider getting the medicated chick starter. Do not give them the same food that your adult chickens eat. They need a high protein food which has a protein level of 20%.

Start by sprinkling chick starter on top of a paper towel in order to encourage pecking at it. You can then move to a chick feeder. I like to use red colored feeders as the color red stimulates the chick and encourages pecking. If your chick does not seem to be eating and drinking, dip their beak into the water and then again into the food. If a chick is not eating or drinking it will feel lighter than the other birds. I also like to grind up the chick starter into smaller particles using a coffee grinder. They seem to like it better when the pieces are smaller.

I also add vitamins, probiotics and electrolytes to the newborn chick’s water. Rooster Booster is a great product for these additives. I also had a little apple cider vinegar (with the mother) to their water for overall good health.

When you are ready to add treats to your chicks diet, make sure that they are healthy treats. Good examples would be foods like fruits and vegetables, high protein, whole grains, low sugar, and low salt products. If chicks are given anything besides chick starter, they will need grit (sand) to aid in digestion. Chick starter is digested by saliva but other foods require grit for grinding in the gizzard since the chicks do not have teeth.

At this age they should have chick grit, not adult grit which would be too large for them. Sprinkle the sand on top of their food as if you were sprinkling salt on something. Do not place it in a separate dish but put it right on the food to make sure that they are getting some. Grit is not the same thing as Oyster Shell. They should not be given oyster shell at all as too much calcium will cause organ failure.

The first treats that I give are mashed hard boiled egg yolk and ground oatmeal. I grind the oatmeal in a coffee grinder. It will almost look like powder. After that I might move on to sweet corn. I grind that up in a food processor. Whatever you give to them must be in small pieces. I also like to take carrots and grind them up in the food processor. Leafy greens must be very processed and in tiny pieces. You do not want the chick to develop crop issues.

Some people like to give unflavored yogurt to chicks. I have found it to be very messy and being a dairy product, I would not give them too much of it. It can cause stomach upset. Probiotics are a good choice for gut health instead.

Older chicks can be given Chick Sticks or mealworms for a treat. You can also begin giving scraps from your dinner table as long as the pieces are small and grit is sprinkled on top.

When chicks eat treats they are not eating commercial feed which should be their main source of nourishment. Treats should only be 5-10% of a chick’s diet. Anything that you add to their diets can dilute the nutrient balance of the commercial feed. Even healthy snacks should be given in moderation. A chick’s growth and immune system can be affected by too many treats which can create an imbalance in nutrients.

When chicks are around eight weeks old they can move on to Grower feed. Start by mixing the two together 50% chick starter and 50% grower feed. Don’t save your chick starter for the next time you have chicks. It will grow moldy and be harmful for the chicks. Use it all up. It is ok for them to be eating it at any stage of development.

Victoria J. Peterson