Vitamins, Silkies, and Wry Neck

20161122_152047    Silkies are sometimes described as a more high maintenance breed of chicken.  Owners are known to give them baths and pedicures and to trim around their eyes when they are so fluffy that they can no longer see.  Many live a pampered existence.

Silkies are often thought to need a higher protein chicken food than most other breeds.  We feed all of our adult silkies a Gamebird Conditioner feed which is 20% protein.  But, does the feed contain all of the vitamins needed for outstanding birds?

Most commercial feed companies will make sure that there is the proper amount of vitamins and minerals for the type and age of the bird. For example, layer feed will have the higher amount of calcium that the hen needs to create egg shells.

However, with any product, the age of the feed is critical to its nutritional content. Vitamins are sensitive to changes due to light, heat and moisture and can lose potency over time.

Some people try to create their own feed mixtures and this can leave the birds with incorrect amounts of certain vitamins and minerals.  Corn and scratch are enjoyed by chickens but are empty calories.

Silkies need extra vitamins during times of stress, very cold weather, when they are breeding , when they are chicks and growers and when they are ill.

There are two kinds of vitamins.  Fat soluble and water soluble.  Water soluble vitamins are not affected by the fats in the chickens diet. These would be the B and C vitamins.  If too much is ingested, it is excreted through the urine.  Fat soluble vitamins are A, D, E and K.  More care needs to be taken not to over supplement these particular vitamins.

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Cluck N Sea Kelp is a nice mixture of Kelp meal that can be added to the regular feed with many benefits. Poultry Power can be added to their food and is a good source of vitamin E.  Life Lytes Mega tabs is another product that can be added to the water. It is a good souce for vitamins A, B12, D and E. Durvet Vitamins and Electrolytes   is what I use to add to both my chick’s and adult’s water.   Rooster Booster is a product I would use with adults for show conditioning or if I was having problems with roosters not performing.  Nutri Drench can be used if you have a sick chick and need something fast acting.

Now a word about Wry Neck…. Wry Neck is evident when you see a bird tucking her head between her legs.  It usually hits young chicks but can happen in older birds.  This can be caused by a vitamin E deficiency .  Vitamin E and vitamin B complex are both known to be good for neurological disorders.

Wry Neck is different from a peck on the head, which silkies are very susceptible to. Their vaulted look when chicks is caused by an opening in their skull like a baby’s soft spot. Pecks can lead to head injuries that look very similar to what you see with Wry Neck.  Vitamin E and Selenium (helps animals absorb vitamin E) can be helpful with these injuries.

If you think that your silkie has wry neck or a head injury, the first thing to do is separate  it from the rest of the flock.  Stress will make it worse, so it needs a quiet environment.  Take a vitamin E capsule and squirt it onto its feed or into its mouth.  Take  25 micrograms of a selenium tablet (or break a 50 mcg tablet in half ) and crush that up and add it to the feed.  Give this to the chick two or three times a day.  You may have to hand feed it if it is not eating by itself.  It may take as long as a month before the condition disappears.  Keep giving it the vitamins for two additional weeks beyond where they appear to be recovered. Wry neck affects 8% of chicks across all breeds.  It is not contagious.

Since silkies are more prone to head injuries, you may want to take care  not to place them in a pen along with more aggressive chickens.  Keep them away from bully birds and do not place them in crowded situations.

As a preventative and just for general good health, I place 1/16 tsp of vitamins and electrolytes per 2 quarts of water.  This is at the feed supplementation level.  More could be used if the bird was showing illness.  I also add 1/2 tsp of apple cider vinegar to the 2 quarts of water.  The chicks are given vitamins every day but the adults are given it every other day.  With the adults  I alternate with Red Cell ( one half capful per gallon of water ) and regular vitamins as well as days where they just get plain water.  Use less vitamins on hot days as they will drink more water than usual.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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Silkies For Sale – 9/24/17

How To Winterize a Chicken Coop Built From a Kit

20170919_130948.jpg     It is never too early to start thinking about winterizing your coop.  Most coops fall into two groups. One type of coop is made from existing buildings such as part of a barn or an ice house.  DIY coops could be put in this category too as they were all probably insulated when they were built.

The other group of coops are the kind that are built from a coop kit.  You can order these kits online or purchase them at DYI big box stores.  They turn out to be cute, little coops that hold less than 10 chickens.

The problem is that these coops do not come insulated.  You may have bought them in the spring when it was warm and now we are headed towards winter.  What can be done to them to help them remain a cozy home for all your birds?

The first thing that comes to mind is insulation.  I would suggest using reflective insulation.  You can easily measure, cut and attach the insulation using a staple gun or with spray contact adhesive.  Just cover the sides and the ceiling of your coop with the reflective insulation and tape the seams with aluminum foil tape.

I have found that the chickens do not pay a whole lot of attention to the shininess of the insulation.  They will, however, peck at the pink insulation or the styrofoam  insulation and eat it as well.  That is why I do not recommend using that kind. The birds have never pecked at the silver insulation and it has worked well for us.

Make sure that there is adequate ventilation across the top part of the coop.  You do not want drafts at the bottom where the silkies sleep, but you do want there to be air exchange inside of the coop.  Moisture build up is not good for the birds and causes respiratory issues.  If you see a frost build up inside the coop on the walls and doors, then you need to have the windows opened wider.

I would also suggest wrapping the run in clear plastic.  The plastic cuts down the sharp, cold wind inside the run and keeps the snow out.  Silkies do not like walking on the snow.  You want your birds to have fresh air, so I don’t wrap all of the run.  Make sure you do the north and the west side as that is where the winds are the strongest. I do not wrap the door.  When spring comes, take down the plastic and save it for next fall.

You will need some way to keep the water dish from freezing.   Some people use heated dog bowls.  We use heated bases with galvanized metal waterers on top.  You will need to run aheavy duty electrical cordout to the coop to run either of these water options.

Chickens generate a lot of body heat when they are together.  Silkies tend to huddle up together to keep each other warm.  Heat is also generated from the heated water bases.  If your coop is small, this should be enough to keep things warm.20170919_131219

I do not think it is healthy for a chicken to go from hot to cold temperatures every time they go out in the run.  Both places should be about the same temperature. If you use the insulation and the heater bases, these small coops should be warm even with a small number of chickens.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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Silkies For Sale – 9/18/17

Fly Strike – Help! What Do I Do Now?

20170907_105345    Fly Strike is a serious condition where fly larvae are living in and feeding on the dead skin of a live chicken.  Fly Strike can effect other animals besides chickens and they can even effect humans.  Another name for it is myiasis or fly – blown.  The larvae can move internally and cause very painful problems.  It can be fatal if not treated promptly.

Flies like moist, dark, areas in order to lay their eggs.  The vent area of the chicken is a favorite place, but they can strike any place on the body where there is an open wound.  Flies lay their eggs and within 8-12 hours, larvae emerge to begin eating on the chicken’s flesh.  The larvae feed on the skin causing  sores that can become infected.

Flies that are known to cause this are bot flies, blow flies and screw flies.  Fly strikes are most common in warm weather.  Summer and Fall is a prime time.  Whenever you begin to see more than normal the amount of flies around your coop, you should take action to diminish them.

Dust Bathing is a great way for birds to keep themselves clean. Make sure that your birds have the opportunity to dust bath.  Runny droppings can build up in the vent area.  This soiled vent area can cause an opening in the skin which can be attractive to the fly.  Try and keep those fluffy butts as clean as you can.  You may need to give them a bath.  Always treat open wounds with an antiseptic to help heal.

Clean water is important as well.  Wash and disinfect the waterers as often as you can.  Some people switch to nipple waterers which will remove the standing water mess.  Chickens often have poo and dirt in their waterers which will attract flies.

One thing you can do is to control the fly population around your coop.  We use flypaper strips  but there are other products as well.  Hang vanilla air fresheners up in the coop. Flies hate the smell.  Add screens to windows and doors in your coop. Keep the ventilation but cut down on flies.

Keep your chickens in good general health by giving them probiotics in the water.  Watch any injuries very closely as they heal.

Treat fly strike by first segregating the bird from the others. Chickens are attracted to red colors and will peck at wounds on other chickens.  This will make the wound even worse.  Apply Blue Kote to the wound.

Add vitamins and electrolytes to the water to help with healing.

Bathe the chicken and try to drown as many larvae as possible.  Physically remove as many as you can see.  Flush wound with vetericyn spray.  If the wound is deep, use a syringe to drive the solution into the wound.  Dry the area with a hair dryer and then spray again with the vetericyn wound and infection treatment.  If it is really infected then antibiotics may be needed. See your veterinarian or use Tylan .

Hopefully fly strike will not happen in your flock but it is best to be prepared and to understand it when you see it.  Good luck with your silkie flock!

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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