Bachelor Pads for the Silkie Rooster

20180627_154829What can you do with your extra roosters?  Almost every flock owner that keeps roosters is faced with this dilemma.  There are rooster rescues,  craigslist ads or even the stew pot,  but not all of these solutions work for all people. Maybe a rooster bachelor pad or Roo frat house is a solution for you.

Bantam breeds are very difficult to sex.  Silkies may be at the top of that list.  Silkies are usually sexed at around 3 to 4 months old.  Bantams and silkies are sold “straight run” which means that you are buying the chicks unsexed.  Fertile chicken eggs have a 50/50 chance of being roosters.  Consequently, many people end up with more rooters than they bargained for.

If you and your family have raised a group of baby chicks up from day olds, you will no doubt have become very attached to every single member of your flock.  It will bring a tear to your children’s eyes if you contemplate selling or giving away your little guys to someone  who may be planning a chicken dinner or even worse, such as using them for cock fighting or as bait birds.

The problem with extra roosters is that the many people who end up keeping all of them and not removing them from their flock assume that the boys can just continue to be part of their little group and that nothing will change.  Well, puberty happens and the male hormones start to kick in and the sweet little boys that you cuddled will suddenly have other things on their minds.

The optimal ratio for roosters to hens is around one rooster for every ten hens.  In a pen where just one rooster rules the roost, the flock is content and happily free from stress.  If you invite several “extra” roosters to join them you are opening up your flock to what could be a disaster.

Normal rooster behavior is to defend his flock of hens from all predators and other males. He will give his life to protect his girls.  When you add more males into the pen it will create fights and anxiety.  This disruption of constant fighting will cause the hens in that pen to stop laying as a stressful environment is not conducive to raising a family.

Multiple roosters mating with too few hens will cause the feathers on your hen’s back and crest to be pulled out and damaged.  Hen aprons can be a solution if you are experiencing this problem.   You may also find that the roosters will turn on you as well, as all are fighting for a place of dominance in the pecking order.

Creating a bachelor colony or frat house is a solution. All extra males would be housed together in a separate pen away from the rest of the flock.  Ideally, you want it to be somewhere where they cannot see or hear any hens.  If they know that hens are nearby they will continue to fight each other for them.

First of all, your rooster run will need to be adequately sized so that they do not feel overcrowded.  Even with no hens around, the males will still feel territorial and need plenty of space.  Multiple feeders and waterers are important.  Roosters that are higher up on the dominance scale may try and prevent lower roosters from eating and drinking.

Trim or remove all rooster’s spurs in order to protect pen mates from damage during any squabbles.  Use a diagonal wire cutter to trim off as much as you can.  Keep nails trimmed with a nail clipper  and trim around their eyes with blunt scissors so they aren’t surprised by anything.

Studies have shown that in the wild, roosters will willingly spend time together in a flock away from the hens so penning them separately is not entirely unusual for them.  Watch for signs of anxiety .  I have found that all will be getting along fine and then suddenly all are fighting.  This is when I generally let them out to free range.  Putting space between them generally settles them down. Some people permanently let their roosters free range and simply keep the hens locked in their own run.

Some people will rotate roosters into other pens so that all roosters get to spend some time with hens.  Remember that all chickens hate change.  This will be reflected in a drop in egg production as they get used to having a new rooster.

Sometimes it is easier to have a separate cockerel pen with no hens in sight or ear shot. Once birds reach maturity individual pens are sometimes best.  Then you only move the roosters for breeding .  This gives you total control of your flock or breeding program.  When they are not breeding, the roosters are in their quarters which gives the hens a break.  Many roosters will be friendly and docile when you are the only one having contact with them.  Pick the roosters up frequently and carry them around .  They love to have their chests and wattles stroked.  If a rooster is too excited, hold him until his heart rate goes down before putting him back on the ground.  When roosters are trained and treated well, they can make excellent companions.

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Keeping your roosters in individual pens also controls their environment. You will be able to evaluate your breeders more accurately and be able to make improvements to the quality of your birds.  You can use small coops like the one in the above picture, or even a dog house with fencing like the picture below.  A nice plastic snaplock coop is easy to clean and take care of.  Chicken tractors are always good choices for male colonies as they can be moved around far from the girls.  At the end of this article you can see the bachelor pad we recently built.  I like to have an heir and a spare when it comes to roosters and we built this one on the side of the garage away from the rest of the flock. They are not able to see or hear hens from this spot.

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For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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How to Prevent and Treat Frostbite in Your Flock

20180104_120604-1     It has been said that a good offence is a good defense where frostbite is concerned. There are, in fact,  things that can be done before frostbite happens that can prevent this serious damage from occurring.

Many people have misconceptions as to what frostbite actually is.   Frostbite is damage that occurs to tissues when they are exposed to extreme cold.  Basically, the fluid inside the cells freeze.  Because of this freezing, blood clots can form which prevents cells from getting oxygen.  This, then, causes the tissue damage.

You want to prevent frostbite from happening in the first place.  Too much moisture in your coop is the top cause for developing frostbite.  Chickens create a lot of moisture just from breathing.   The more birds you have in your coop, the more you need to ventilate that moisture out.  I keep the windows open all year round. They are high enough so that they do not cause a draft. Adding roof vents to your coop can keep air circulating.  Put a digital thermometer/hygrometer to measure the temperature and the humidity in your coop so that you can always be on top of any changes.  If the windows have moisture or condensation on them then you need to increase your ventilation.

Another way to limit moisture in the coop is to make sure that you do not have damp bedding or moisture from droppings.  If possible, keep waterers out of the coop.  If you have a watering system that creates a lot of spillage, you may want to switch to a nipple water systemPine shavings stay dryer than straw or hay.  Make sure you are changing the bedding and removing the droppings to reduce moisture.  The dry litter method works well but remember to keep the bedding stirred up and fluffy.  Use dropping boards under your roosts for easy clean up daily.

Attention should be made to the chicken’s roost. During colder weather, most chickens will fluff up and poof out their feather.  They are trying to cover their combs, wattles and feet with their feathers and bodies.  Flat, wide roosting boards are best.  Rounded perches can be slippery.  A  2X4  board will work well and allow them to cover their feet with their bodies. Install as much ventilation as you can as high up as you can. The openings should not cause drafts on their roosts.  Silkies that do not roost high up but instead sleep on the floor will need extra protection from drafts that can occur from pop doors. I use squares of reflective insulation to block drafts.

Apply a coat of a wax based product to combs and wattles at night.  I like Waxlene or Musher’s Secret.   Other good choices are Bag Balm or Coconut oil.  Make sure that whatever you use, that it is wax based. Do not use a cream based product as the water in them will freeze and increase your chance of frostbite.  If your bird is hard to catch, wait until it is on the roost at night and then gently remove to apply the product.

Chickens need protection outdoors as well. Provide windbreaks through the use of clear tarps.   For more information on setting up tarps on your run look here.   Add wooden planks to perch on outdoor so that their feet can keep off the cold ground. If it is too cold out, just simply keep them indoors.  It won’t hurt them to stay inside for the day.

There are many things to can lead to frostbite.  Drafts on the floor, cold temperatures, wind chill factor, how long your bird is exposed to cold temperature, humidity or moisture in the air, high altitude, no access to shelter, rain or snow leaking into the coop, high humidity due to too many droppings or simply not enough bedding.

The early sages of frostbite are called frost nip. In cold weather, chickens are able to  conserve or hang onto their body heat by restricting blood flow to their combs, wattles and feet.  These are also the places that allow a bird to release heat in the summertime.  The results ends up being that the decrease in warmth and oxygen puts these regions at a risk for frostbite.

Wattles are very susceptible due to water dripping on them as they drink. A change to a nipple watering system with a pail and pail deicer can work in the cold weather.  They also sell a cold weather nipple system already put together.  Bearded silkies have their wattles protected with feathers but nonbearded silkies would need some frostbite protection.

Symptoms of frostbite include: a whitening or pale gray color to tissues, swelling of the tissues, combs and wattles feel cold or hard to the touch, blisters form that are filled with fluid, tissues become blackened, bird is limping (frostbite to feet) loss of appetite and listlessness.

Remove a frostbitten bird to a warmer area and gradually warm the injured area. Avoid rubbing it as that will cause additional damage  Do not use something like a hair dryer to try to warm it but let it gradually become warmer.  Do not break any blisters that have formed.  Do not remove the blackened tissue as this is protecting the healthy tissue under it.  The blackened part will dry up and eventually fall off.  Those areas will not grow back.

Keep the area clean with neosporin or Vetericyn VF Hydrogel spray.  Use it on the infected area 2-3 times a day until it is healed.  Watch out for infection.  If you see swelling, redness, oozing, or bad smelling discharge you may want to call a vet.  Soak frostbitten feet in lukewarm water and keep it indoors on soft bedding.

Watch to make sure that they are eating and drinking .  Add vitamins and electrolytes to their water to keep them hydrated.  Watch out for other chickens pecking at their frostbitten areas. Blue -Kote could help with that.   Frostbite takes around 6 weeks to heal.

The consequences of frostbite include pain for the bird, disfigurement (their combs will always look rounded), loss of movement in their feet, decreased fertility in roosters and loss of egg production in hens.

Luckily, silkies have walnut combs which give them protection from frostbite. If you live in areas of cold weather try to choose breeds of birds that have small combs.  Single comb birds have the worst time with frostbite, but even small combed breeds can suffer if it gets cold enough.

Other blogs of interest include How to Deal with Below Zero Temps in the Chicken Coop, and Tips For Winterizing You Chicken Run.

For tips and tricks for raising outstanding silkies check out our Chicken Learning Center at VJPPoultry.com .  VJP Poultry is an NPIP and state inspected hatchery located 30 miles north of St. Paul.  We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available.  Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale.

Victoria J. Peterson

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